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Dispatch #13 from Rwanda (cont.)

I've come to love this place, but it can get to you. It really is a difficult place to live - power outages, no guarantee of running water (either hot or cold), street kids begging for money, an old toothless woman sitting on the steps of the post office begging for money, the same man trying to sell me more of the same candle holders of which I've already bought half a dozen, men trying to sell me bags of hot, hot peppers or oranges or whatever's in season, the minibuses that seem to actually aim for you as they barrel down Butare's main road, the stray dogs that are frequently shot in the middle of the night, the sheer poverty and underneath it all the legacy of the genocide.

But it is also these same things which I'll miss. But I'll especially miss the people. It is after all the people that leave the strongest impressions, that touch your heart, that drive you crazy, and that drive you to do what you do - they inspire.

Like Leopold, a second year student and future filmmaker, who, in the midst of exams and finishing up coursework, put together a 35-minute documentary on street kids. He had a screening of the film for me, his "best friend," and several others. The documentary is incredible.

And Collin, a third year student, who after consuming a few beers at our end of semester gathering made a list of reasons why I was a good teacher and why I was a bad teacher. Apparently, I was bad because I made him want to cry and to give up. But ironically I was good because, according to Collin, I made him work hard. "She never gives up so I didn't want to either," he explained.

And Angelique, one of the 6 TV journalists that I worked with a couple weeks ago. I had to conduct the workshop in French as all of the journalists were Francophone. I hadn't been prepared for that, but I still somehow managed to muddle my way through (and by the end of the week was actually quite proud of myself!). Angelique and the others were incredibly patient helping me find the words, through sign language, pictograms or miming, when none came to me

I hadn't been sure sometimes during the week about Angelique's commitment to journalism though she had been at TVR for 8 years. She ended up as one of the strongest students and shocked me when she began crying as we said our goodbyes. She couldn't even look at me.

And countless others, many of whom lost part or all of their family in 1994, but who have a burning desire to become journalists in spite of, or perhaps despite, the legacy of hate media in this country and the role radio played in the slaughter of almost one million people. There is still hope here and that, in part, is what has kept me going these past four months.

I guess I have made an impact here. Sometimes you never really know if you're making a difference. For me it appears I have. I've received a number of emails thanking me for inspiring them, for pushing them, for teaching them. I thank them for inspiring me to do the best that I can.

I feel like I can now leave Rwanda in peace knowing I've accomplished so much. But I also know there is still so much work left to be done. And I know that I will be back....just not sure when or how.

Be well, be safe
Michelle


Well, shortly after I wrote my dispatch Sunday I had a relapse. After a number of tests which came back negative and putting me on malaria medication to which I have responded, it was decided that I did in fact have malaria....so there you go. Definitely never a dull moment.

I'm doing pretty well. Still quite weak, headachy and shaky but the drugs are helping tremendously!

Today I went to visit Alphonsina and her siblings. I brought along one of my students and we're going to try getting at least some of them back in school. I trust Leopold, my student, to help with this and I hope we'll have some success.

That's it for now from the Land of a Thousand Hills...
over and out! best,
michelle

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