Dispatch #2 from Rwanda

Well, I've made it thru my second week in Rwanda and my first week teaching. I suppose the teaching has really been the highlight of the past week. I've begun two different classes, one second year and one third year. Most of the students are stronger in French than English so I find myself speaking what I think is excruciatingly slow, but apparently they appreciate it! I also wonder sometimes if they're actually understanding me, I encourage them to ask questions, to ask for clarifications, but as most students around the world, they are a bit shy the first couple days.

The conditions under which I teach are a bit on the challenging side and it forces one to come up with creative (and sometimes just pretty damn basic) solutions! Forget power point, or transparencies...my multimedia here consists of a very rough blackboard, chalk and sometimes an eraser. The blackboard really is like a large piece of slate....at least that's what it looks and feels like. Periodically, one of the students will go up and erase my chickenscratch from the previous hour. You see, I also have to keep these students engaged and entertained for a very long 3 hours at a time! Yikes, I find it difficult enough to do this with fluent English speakers for one and a half hours!

There are also usually not enough chairs for the students to sit on. Oh, did I mention that I'm teaching in their television studio. It's bare except for the blackboard, some chairs and some rolls of burgundy carpet at the back. There's no equipment, except for a nice lighting grid just waiting to be used! At the back of my mind I wonder how I am going to teach these kids television production...this is when creativity really becomes essential. It's like this big challenge...overcoming what some may see as impossible. But no, I know there is a way....I just have to figure it out!!

The uni does have a small radio studio...with a reel to reel!! I ask Ines what they use to edit. It's all analog, she explains. Ok...razor blades and grease pencils...this should be fun, but then again, that's how I learned! There is also one video editing station that has a cuts only and also Adobe Premier. Ines has asked a former student to assist me in teaching this. I met with him last week and his suggestion is to use the adobe premier for both audio and video. Problem is, I've only got one station for 40-odd students who will all be doing assignments over the next several weeks. So, as much as I might have my lesson plans and assignments all set out, I know they're going to change from day to day depending on what the students have been able to get done, etc. I know it's going to be a hell of a challenge, but I have to admit it, I feel up to this particular challenge.

My second year production students were much more inquisitive than the 3rd year students. They really challenged me. We got talking about Rwanda's media image to the rest of the world and we all figured that "Rwanda=genocide" is how Rwanda is represented. They asked me how this could be changed. I didn't have an answer for them as that is partly the nature of news (and one of it's weaknesses, imho), bad news is what makes the headlines, not good news. For some moments during and after that particular class (this was Friday morning) I actually had this kind of panic attack...what am I doing here? Should I be here? Do I have a place here? It was like, who the hell am I to be here teaching these kids journalism? I really began to think about my role here....and I continue to think about this, tho at least the panic has subsided.

Most of the students showed up that first week...Ines had told me not to expect many students at all. I think she was more surprised than I when she saw that most of them showed up. I figure it was merely for the novelty of checking out this new muzungu. But hey, whatever it takes, I figure!!

So that was my first week of teaching in a nutshell. I did manage to do a few other things during the week. Yesterday, for example I went to the market with the intent of making some purchases. On the way I stopped at a store just across the street from the hotel. They specialize in fruit jams. I walked in and said "mwaramutseho" (good morning in Kinyarwanda). I guess she figured that made me fluent and so she started yacking to me in Kinyarwanda! Yikes!!! I blurted out in French that I didn't understand (god, I felt like a moron) and that I was very sorry. It was actually kind of funny. I then headed to the market. I really wanted to get some fabric!! So poked around, spoke to a few of the women selling fabric. Then headed over to the fruit and veggie section. Spotted some nice looking tomatoes. They saw me coming! They basically pushed the other customers out of the way so they could serve me. I point to the tomatoes. She starts filling this little container. I ask how much. She says 200francs (about 40 cents). I say I only want 100 francs worth. I guess she didn't understand me, cuz she gave them all to me for 100 francs (20 cents). I grabbed a couple small red onions as well (10 cents) and was thrilled with my purchases. I'd been eating so much meat lately and I think that was really bugging my gut, so I had decided to do a vegetarian weekend. On the way out of the market I decided to look at more fabric. Finally found a piece and got it for 4000 francs ($8). It's quite beautiful. Then popped by a few tailors to see how much it would cost to get a skirt made. Well, the first couple didn't speak French (or English) so I kept going. Finally found Maurice! He spoke some French and English and told me, after we chatted a while, that a skirt would cost me 2000fr. ($4). I told him I'd be back.

Last night a student and a friend of his popped by. We sat by the pool and chatted. They were both Tutsis, born and raised in Uganda and had come back here to go to uni. We talked about the genocide, politics etc. To me it was clear, at least from speaking to these two, that there's still so much healing to be done. Some people (Hutus) still fear there may be revenge killings. Despite what President Kagame says (that "we are all Rwandans") I get the sense that that feeling of oneness has not yet happened and I fear it will be many years before it does, if ever.

My favorite time of day is early morning as the birds wake up - it's usually their chirping that awakens me. I'll roll over, look at my watch and see it's barely 6 o'clock. I'll try to sleep again, but can't, so finally push thru the mosquito net, put on my glasses, open the curtains and go out onto my balcony. Taking in that first deep breath of smoky Rwandan air. That brings a smile to my face. I look down onto the valley, the mist slowly creeping up the hills. I'm excited about the start of a new day!

Michelle

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