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Dispatch #6 from Rwanda

My first question at TV Rwanda was met with laughter. The question the news team found humorous? "Do you have any computers?" Well, at least I now knew exactly where I stood and had a fairly good idea as to what I was up against (or not, I suppose, depending on how you look at it).

TVR is in central Kigali and together with Radio Rwanda form ORINFOR, the office of information. That should give you some sense as to the state of journalism in this country. There's little, if any, press freedom and although the government has announced it will issue more licenses for radio stations in the country, this has yet to happen. The government says it doesn't want a repeat of how radio was used during the genocide. You see, Radio Milles Collines was used to spread a message of hate and literally incited people to go out and kill their neighbors and anyone else who might be around and who might be Tutsi. Television, on the other hand, has only been around since 1997, hard to believe but true.

TVR, like all government offices here, has a guard at the gate which one must pass by to get into the small compound composed of several small one-story buildings and a pretty garden with a gigantic plumeria tree. The newsroom at TVR consists of a room with a few chairs and a couple of tables. That's it. Nothing electronic whatsoever. TVR puts out 3 evening newscasts (each approximately 20-30 minutes each...time is not an issue here) in 3 different languages: Kinyarwanda, French and English. By the end of my first day I have to admit I was pretty impressed with what they are able to put out given the challenges and the limitations they work under. But I have to admit, much of the content is in desperate need of help.

There are 2 edit suites, a voicing room, a studio with what I can only call antique lamps and what appears to be a homemade set with the backdrop a hand-painted picture of the African continent in greys, whites and black. No wireless microphones here. Instead, there's a mic on a stand on the table (which often ends up in the shot, though hopefully that has now changed!) Perhaps the only computer at the entire station is the one used for teleprompter.

The newscasts consist of an anchor reading the intros to the 6-8 packages that run from 2-4 minutes each. Most of the stories are of official events: ceremonies, meetings or workshops, which a minister, the president or the first lady might be attending. And that's the only reason the story is done - there's really very little, if any, newsworthiness to what is being covered. This became the theme of my two days at TVR. The English editor, who was acting news director that week, suggested I work individually with reporters as they worked on their stories.

So Thursday I worked on a few scripts (in both French and English) and helped with some editing, making suggestions along the way. It was challenging working with the French-language reporters as my French, although better than it was 6 weeks ago, is still not fluent, but I somehow made it through and the reporters seemed to be grateful.

Friday was somewhat more structured. We began with the morning meeting, not much different than morning meetings I've attended in North America. We talked about the stories of the day and then I was asked for some suggestions as to how to cover these stories. Well, I thought, I didn't want to offend anyone, but it was clear that every single story being discussed made it onto the list only because some government official was involved. I wasn't sure where to go with this. Part of me wanted to just yell out "who cares what meetings/ceremonies/workshops government officials are attending today...let's do some REAL news." But I bit my tongue for a second and thought of how I could deal with this at least somewhat diplomatically.

So, I basically started by pointing out that every single story involved some minister and that seemed to be the only reason they were doing these stories. Indeed, everyone nodded in agreement - and that's when the discussion really began. It became clear that these people were all too aware of the restrictions they were working under but many had become so used to operating in this way they just never gave it a second thought. On the other hand there were some who were very clearly frustrated with this state of affairs but really were unsure of how, or if, it could be changed. What a revelation this was to me. I just assumed that these people were acting as automatons, as peons of the government, but what I quickly realized is how wrong I was and how much they wanted change.

As I began to answer their questions I felt like some subversive or something, that I was doing something illegal. But in reality all I was doing was encourage them to diversify their sources and to look for the story behind the ceremony/meeting etc. Sure, I said, go and cover these meetings and sure, go ahead and speak to the minister present, but then go after the real story and speak to the people affected by this story. We spoke about an example from the day before which involved an aid organization that helps street kids presenting some award or other to someone. Well, all that was covered was this ceremony, the reporter didn't bother speaking to anyone. I suggested that they could have spoken to some street kids (turns out there were some at the ceremony) etc etc.

We discussed a story from the day's lineup. It was a story of the first ever graduation ceremony at a new health institute and the first lady was going to be there. OK, so they were expected to go because the first lady was going to be there, but let's at least speak to some of these new graduates.

I also went out with a couple of reporters to cover the closing ceremony (yes, a recurring theme here) of a week-long workshop regarding decentralization of taxation etc., and yes, the revenue minister was supposed to be in attendance. So off we trudged in our land rover bouncing along the potholed and cratered roads. Once we got to our location we basically waited, and waited. The minister never showed up and I had to return to town as I had another meeting. I discussed with the reporters what the story was and I suggested we speak to some of the 150 or so administrators from all over the country who were in attendance. One of the reporters brought out an English-speaking man. I asked him just two questions and I got back some great responses. Yes, handing over taxation responsibilities to the districts was going to be challenging....there simply was not the infrastructure to handle it.

The man left and I explained to the reporter, who was standing there dumbfounded, that while I now had to leave, he should speak to the same man on camera in addition to finding some others who might have something to say. When we met later and looked at the tape I realized he had not spoken to the same man and in the end spoke to only one person who really didn't give a very good clip. I asked what happened and he explained that the first man didn't want to speak on camera. Oh well, I hoped at least some of my message had gotten through.

I stayed for the first evening newscast, in Kinyarwanda. The anchors here have had no training whatsoever and are pretty much thrown to the wolves. I met with Isabelle, this week's Kinyarwandan host. I had watched the show the night before and the poor girl looked absolutely terrified...didn't blink, her face was set like stone.

I chatted with her, gave her a few tips and tried to have her relax as that was clearly her biggest problem. Apparently the 20 minutes I spent with her paid off...people told her that her performance that night was much better than usual, what happened, they asked her?

So, a challenging but rewarding couple of days at TVR, and I'm anxious to get back. While I was in Kigali, Radio Rwanda got wind and asked to meet with me again. I thought I had received a lukewarm reception when I had met with them several weeks previously but met with them again. I remembered they had a "real" newsroom, ie. computers and internet connection. I asked the TV news director why radio had all the computers and TV had none. The answer was simply that the former head of radio (now head of TV) had gotten a major donation from a German organization. So, it seemed that TV was like the poor step-child. In any case, I agreed to come back and do some work with radio for a week in May (after my week in Uganda) and they seemed pleased. I also told TV I'd be back in June.

OK guys, I know I've rambled so let me finish with a quickie.

I was looking forward to the bus ride back as I just wanted to crash, which I did for the first hour and a bit. Then suddenly I felt some wet specks land on me and looked out the window to see a liquidy substance splashing back on the window. Turns out the kid in front of me had gotten car sick (or something) and puked his poor little guts out. As he stuck his head out the window puke flew back inside, and back, at me!!

Yup, never a dull moment.

Be well, be happy.
Michelle

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