Chengdu Diary
 
 

Considering Chengdu

 
Ask the Chinese about Chengdu and they'll tell you it is a laid back city
 
 

What we aim to discover in our stories in China is the how the ever-widening generational divide affects people and society. There's a split between an old and a new way of seeing the world. To learn about how this split plays out we might very well have stayed in the biggest cities -- the ones you hear about often. But in Shanghai and Beijing we have excellent, full-time reporters.

So we settled on Chengdu. It's big enough to have a little bit of everything, yet small enough to give us time to feel we know it. The best figure we can find on its metropolitan-area size is 11-million. And it's growing everyday; a magnet pulling people in from farms and villages with the lure of an easier and more exciting life.

A building construction worker in Chengdu.

Sudden and drastic changes to the skyline of Chengdu are the result of new projects underway.

Andrea Hsu, NPR

Chengdu draws tourists as well. People come from all over the country and the world to marvel at nearby majestic mountains, walk through stunning bamboo forests in a park to the south and to get a look at pandas.

The Locale

Located midway across the county in Southwestern China, it's in a basin where considerable pollution remains trapped much of the year. Construction cranes hover above block after block of the city. Old neighborhoods have been torn down, replaced by utilitarian skyscrapers and apartment blocks.

Factories grind out products for both domestic and foreign consumption. Streets are clogged with cars. The city is building a subway system, while Chengdu's airport rivals any in the world with its airy, spacious design.

In the center of Chengdu, Mao's statue stands amidst capitalist neon and glitz. His vision of the life under Communism did not include designer goods and skyscrapers. But he's not in charge any more. So Western hotels are opening up (the Sheraton has been there for the best part of a decade, a Holiday Inn Express is about to open). Numerous stores sell expensive western brand-names to the upwardly mobile. There is even a Rolls-Royce dealership near the airport.

A steady stream of Western businesses are setting up shop. Intel is the most prominent and oft cited. In addition to manufacturing, there is a growing international service sector, the local branch of the American Chamber of Commerce is headed by a entrepreneur who runs "The Coffee Beanery. Types of businesses choosing Chengdu are determined by shipping costs; the city doesn't have deep water access so transport is by land, air and rail.

Higher Education

Chengdu is a prominent university city. Sichuan Normal is spread between its leafy main campus and various satellites. Among them are Southwest Jiaotong University (Founded in 1896); University of Electronic Science and Technology of China (Founded in 1956); Southwestern University of Finance and Economics; Southwest University for Nationalities; Sichuan International Studies University and Chengdu University of Technology

Where the Pandas Are

Sichuan Province is panda-central. One of China's two major breeding centers has a beautiful facility on the outskirts of the city. Zhang Zhihe is the director of the Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding. One of his innovations was changing the pandas' diet back to almost entirely bamboo, which dramatically improved both the pandas' health and propensity to procreate.

Music, Dance, Art, etc

This is a city that cares about food. Sichuan fare is magnificent, provided you like food that leaves your lips numb.

Sichuan cooking kitchen.

Spicy and hot style food in Sichuan is not a cliche. It's real. And it's delicious.

Andrea Hsu, NPR
 

If you're a regular listener to our radio program,you know we won't just do the hard news. We'll make sure you hear the music of the city, too. There's a lively club scene in Chengdu. A local legend has it that the most popular club in town sells 450 bottles of Chivas Regal on a weekend night, usually drunk mixed with green tea.

There's a limited alternative music scene based around a bar called The Little Bar, owned by the ex-wife of a well known Chinese artist. It's a cool, funky space that seems to spare no expense since it has up-to-date audio equipment that drives the sound.

Chengdu has a lively contemporary arts scene and a poetry circle.

So, overall, Chengdu is the sort of place that's perfect for a newsmagazine such as All Things Considered. We'll tell the story about how the habits and lives of the younger people differ from those of the older generations, and do that in all the realms we can find. And we'll present a mix of serious issues, social commentary, humor, and lots of quirky stories about creative things people are doing with their new-found wealth.
--Art Silverman with Chris Turpin

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If you haven't gone to the Wenshu temple, I highly recommend it. There is a wonderful vegetarian restaurant inside the temple grounds that serves only lunch. There are a few beautiful Chinese ponds where hundreds of turtles are piled up on top of each other. There is also a pavilion with traditionally arranged flowers. I lived in this area for a year teaching English at UESTC and then later at Sichuan Agricultural University nearby in Ya'an. Ya'an is even better than Chengdu. It's smaller and surrounded by mountains. My favorite thing about Chengdu besides Wenshu temple is the traffic. I just love all the non-motorized traffic, especially the rickshaws.

Sent by Gina Simm | 6:26 PM ET | 04-04-2008

My husband visited our son in Chengdu last spring and found the city bustling with people, as is every city in China, noisy, polluted (air), full of street life and very friendly people.

Our son spent a year in China, studying at the Southwest University for Nationalities and traveling every chance he got. When we visited we stayed in a hostel in the Tibetan quarter that is likely filled with Chinese soldiers at this writing and never found ourselves in a situation where someone didn't speak English. ("What was your major in college?" "English." or "English and tourism.")

Our son, Will, quickly made Chinese friends and moved out of his study abroad program's housing and into an apartment with his friend, Nick, who had a talent for finding Westerners who would teach English and also help recruit young Chinese students who wanted to learn English from a native speaker. As Will learned, where else would you find college students who would pay for extra language classes on Friday and Saturday nights but in China! He also worked for a couple of other 'schools' and taught pre-schoolers and young people just out of college.

Once when I asked how his Chinese was coming along, he told me he thought he could understand everything that went on in the pre-school class and reminded me that Chinese students go to school for 12 years to become proficient in their own language.

Sent by Emily Thrower | 6:29 PM ET | 04-04-2008

I came across a lively expat English language magazine many users may find informative: www.chengdoo.com.

Sent by gil | 5:59 AM ET | 04-22-2008

I'm a student at the University of Cincinnati in Cincinnati, Ohio, USA and will be studying at the Southwest University for Nationalities in Chengdu soon. This diary and the user comments have provided a tremedous insight for me to understand Chengdu better.

I'd love it if one of your correspondents here -- Emily Thrower, the person who placed a comment above me -- could contact me so I could learn more about her son's experience in Chengdu (where I will be spending the next year of my life.)

Sent by Michael Shane | 1:28 PM ET | 04-23-2008

MoreChengdu is an English Chengdu guide that provides information about visiting Chengdu: bars, hotels, shops, nightlife, clubs

http://www.morechengdu.com/

Sent by Go thee to Chengdu | 12:27 PM ET | 06-04-2008



   
   
   
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Melissa Block

Melissa Block

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Andrea Hsu

Andrea Hsu

Producer

 
 
 

About 'Chengdu Diary'

We first launched this blog in the spring of 2008, when a team from NPR's All Things Considered headed to Chengdu, China, the capital of Sichuan Province, to prepare for a week of special programming on China. On May 12, 2008, the staff found themselves in the middle of an unexpected story when a massive earthquake struck southwestern China.

The 2008 entries on this blog offer a day-by-day chronicle of the team's experiences before and after the quake. The 2009 entries document a return visit to Chengdu and to the parts of Sichuan Province most affected by the disaster.

For more about the project, please be sure to read our Frequently Asked Questions guide and our discussion rules.

 
 

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