Sun Over the City

I just discovered your Chengdu blog. How exciting. I spent the better part of a month on a trek through eastern Tibet, that began and ended with several days in Chengdu.

The hazy skies are one of the most striking memories that I have. They gave me the true aspiration to never lose the sun in my home city of Toronto.

The bicycle lanes! I envied them for having so much roadway dedicated to bikes. But I was also more than once practically mowed down by cyclists until I figured out the how the streetlight system accommodates both bicycle and automobile traffic.

In general I just learned to watch out for groups of local people crossing the street and to go with them, regardless of what the lights seemed to say. They always knew how and when to get across.

I also loved the variety of attachments that they added to their bikes for ultimate comfort. Umbrellas on long springy poles, and radios for listening during the commute.

I enjoyed a couple of different excursions to the Tibetan part of town. Chengdu has a wonderful "Little Tibet" with shops and sounds and smells, and some amazing restaurants. So I hope you do a bit of reporting from there.

Obviously, it would be interesting to know how the local Tibetan population is faring in the wake of the recent unrest. But beyond taking sides on the issue, it would be of interest to know how this vibrant, resilient community is getting along. They are wonderful, warmhearted people who more often than not have a smile on their faces and a funny story to tell.

I have been on 2 extended trips to China (once to Xiamen the summer of '89 - a fascinating time to be there!) And once to Chengdu/Sichuan province and the TAR.

I love China. I met some of the most wonderful people there, and in an odd way, felt more at home there than I ever have in North America. I can't really explain it, but it was a palpable feeling both times.

So I hope you have an amazing month, and will look forward to your regular reports and posts. And please do bring us lots of sound! Sichuan is indeed as much a feast for the ears as for the eyes and stomach.

Sent by J. Rigzin Tute | 11:27 AM | 4-5-2008

Great pictures! Is the person in the first photo wearing an orange jump suit a city worker?

I look forward to the reports.

Sent by Sean Powers, KBIA | 8:45 PM | 4-5-2008

That ain't 'haze and smog', it's ALL smog.

You sort of get used to it after a while, as in get used to how wretched it is. James Fallows has had some good blog entries on the problem. One particular post details a fascinating syndrome that I'd been telling folks back home about myself, which is that during 'Golden Week' holidays, when the factories shut down for a week, after about 2 days, the skies clear up and you see real blue sky for the first time... a day or two after the holiday ends and it's all back to the usual. Naturally Friday was Qingming holiday (Tomb sweeping day) so... you got a small reprieve and a glance at what could be...

Sent by JC | 8:55 PM | 4-5-2008

To fellow commentator Sean Powers:

You asked if the person in the first photo Melissa took on the sunny street wearing an orange jump suit is a city worker?

I think he or she is a city cleaner. They wear those outfits to keep drivers from whacking into them.

Sent by jiang huang | 12:33 PM | 4-7-2008

Some things that I found odd and funny when I was in Chengdu were the wandering ear cleaners. These men walk around and will clean your ears on the street and even in some restaurants! In addition to ear cleaning you can get a sit-down back and scalp massage.

Some American students, upon returning from Chengdu, have noted the extreme spitting they encountered there. We wondered if it is a cultural thing or just a way of dealing with the intense pollution.

But the thing I enjoyed the most about Chengdu was the neighborhood known as "Little Tibet" and the FOOD! Fresh, varied, and delicious. The hot pot was so fun, social, spicy, and so tasty!