Chengdu Diary
 
 

Crisis and Community

 
“Umbrellas keeping us in the shade came from relief workers.”
 
 
ATC Chengdu Group

All Things Considered host Robert Siegel being sheltered from the sun by farmers in Red Flag village.

Photo by Christopher Turpin, NPR

One moment from our time reporting here in China that lingers with me. It occurred in the magnificently named village of Red Flag.

Robert Siegel, Art Silverman, along with our loyal NPR listener turned interpreter, Xiaoyu Xie, had visited this picturesque hamlet a couple of days earlier, just after the May 12th earthquake. They'd discovered a place where no relief aid had yet arrived.

They decided to return to see if things were any better.


A Gift of Shade

We arrived unannounced in the heat of a blazing day. As I was taking pictures, I realized one of the village women was at my side. She stood close and sheltered me from the sun with her umbrella. As if on cue, other villagers came out of their makeshift tents to shade Robert and Xiaoyu.

Simple Acts of Humanity

It was a simple gesture, but an extraordinary one. These residents of Red Flag had every right to be consumed by their own grief and discomfort. Their homes were shattered; their lives turned upside down, the entire village reduced to rubble, and most of what they owned destroyed.

Yet, what remained standing was their thoughtfulness towards visitors. We learned that even the umbrellas keeping us in the shade had been provided by the relief workers who had finally turned up with food and water.

It's a cliche that the worst of times bring out the best in people. Yet, like most cliches, there is a grain of truth in it.


Sense of Community

My grandmother told wonderful stories about the Blitz - the bombing of London by the Germans in World War Two - and how it created a remarkable sense of community in that city's East End. It's what happened briefly in New York and Washington in the immediate aftermath of 9/11. And I've felt that same spirit in Sichuan these past two weeks, whether in the tiny village of Red Flag or the city of Chengdu.

Last Monday, after television and radio stations announced the government believed a giant aftershock was imminent, tens of thousands of residents in Chengdu took to the streets. I think we called it a panic, at least initially. But where I was -- the downtown soccer stadium -- there didn't seem to be much angst. Friends drank beers, played cards and chatted. Couples used the occasion as an excuse for a little romance. One family was sitting on the grass playing with their little dog. The mood was more festive than fearful.

Sichuan rice road

Automobiles do the threshing along Sichuan country roads.

Photo by Christopher Turpin, NPR

One final image; back to Red Flag for a moment, six days after the quake. Farmers are out in the rice paddies, canola is drying in the sun, and rice husks have been spread in a thin layer across the road so passing cars will do the hard work of threshing.

Who knows whether the Red Flag villagers will stay in the country, or ultimately be forced by the earthquake to join the largest urban migration in history? But for now the familiar rhythms of country life are returning--the harvest can't wait.

- - Christopher Turpin


 

Comments (Send a comment)

It is hard to image such a delightful photo right after the powerful earthquake. I can almost feel it, peach, tranquility, and fresh air. Nature is always beautiful, so I thought...

Sent by cz | 11:44 PM ET | 05-24-2008

Chinese farmers are always very self sufficient. They feel uncomfortable at the receiving end even in the face of a disaster. I am glad to see some of them back at work harvesting. That would make them happy. Crops lay spread on the road, what a familiar scene of rural China, I can almost smell the country side.

Sent by Tom | 11:45 PM ET | 05-24-2008

I will miss this blog and the ATC focus on China. A native of Oregon, I have long been a student of Chinese language and culture, married to a scientist from Chongqing. When ATC went to Chengdu to report on the culture and development in Sichuan, I was very excited to hear your ideas about a region that I periodically visit and hold as my other home. When the earthquake occurred, I was horrified at the circumstance but grateful to have ATC's perspective on the disaster. Now I am proud of the Chinese people and the Chinese domestic response to this natural disaster. Thanks to ATC for your flexibility in responding to this unexpected turn of your mission in China and the quality of reporting that your have brought to us. We have tracked the Chinese media as well, and have been gratified by the depth and breadth of reporting available over the internet in the USA in English and Chinese. But it has been ATC that brought the clearest insight into the impact of the earthquake on the lives of individuals. Thanks to all of you for your craft. As a result of your time in China, I expect that your background and interest in China will color your future reporting -- and I look forward to seeing hints of your experiences with the Chinese in your future stories.

Though connections and cooperation, peace and interdependence is more likely; thus you have done your part to make a better world for us all. Well done.

Sent by Jon D. Moutlon | 12:07 AM ET | 05-25-2008

Yes, the worst of times bring out the best in people.

Thanks for all the touching reports from Sichuan!

Sent by Yuhua | 12:20 AM ET | 05-25-2008

That is a true China and real Chinese. Thanks for sharing this story.

Sent by Tao | 1:12 AM ET | 05-25-2008

Thank you for the very toughing story about those lovely people.

Sent by gjxl | 1:31 AM ET | 05-25-2008

Thank you for keeping the stories of Chengdu, Sichuan and the earthquake aftermath coming AND for highlighting the good.

Sent by Sheri | 1:36 AM ET | 05-25-2008

We moved to Chengdu for a year three years ago. Our many experiences similar to yours in Red Flag are a big reason we are still here. Thank you very much for such an evocative portrait.

Sent by Tom Hill | 2:11 AM ET | 05-25-2008

I have been on the verge of tears for the last couple weeks. I know China doesn't need more tears now. But I just can't hold it back. God I love these people so much. Thank you so much NPR.

Sent by wec080 | 3:43 AM ET | 05-25-2008

We will overcome. And we will build our home better than before. We know that we are not alone. Where there is life, there is hope.

Sent by Song Qiuying | 6:14 AM ET | 05-25-2008

There was another M6.4 strong aftershock a few hours ago. Felt in Chengdu.

Sent by Sichuanese2 | 8:37 AM ET | 05-25-2008

This is very common in China. If you travel to China, no matter which country are you from, you will be welcome, and the Chinese people will express our full hospitality to you.

Sent by Dallas | 3:51 PM ET | 05-25-2008

Here is a wonderful story if you can read Chinese:

http://dyestuff.blog.163.com/blog/static/8054392520084214462389/

Sent by john | 11:06 PM ET | 05-25-2008

My parents were in Chengdu when the earthquake hit, and it took us many hours to track them down. My husband and I have been listening to NPR's podcast on the earthquake since the beginning. We kept saying that it is so nice that NPR is actually there and doing all these reports. I've learned so much more about that part of China. It reminds me the village that I grew up in northern China.

Sent by Joyce | 1:10 AM ET | 05-26-2008

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Robert Siegel

Robert Siegel

Host

 
Melissa Block

Melissa Block

Host

 
Brendan Banaszak

Brendan Banaszak

Producer

 
David Gilkey

David Gilkey

Photographer

 
Andrea Hsu

Andrea Hsu

Producer

 
Anthony Kuhn

Anthony Kuhn

Correspondent

 
Louisa Lim

Louisa Lim

Correspondent

 
Art Silverman

Art Silverman

Producer

 
Chris Turpin

Chris Turpin

Executive Producer

 
 
 

About 'Chengdu Diary'

NPR staff went to Chengdu, Sichuan, China in early May 2008 to prepare for a week of special reports for broadcast on All Things Considered. They found themselves in the middle of an unexpected story when the May 12th earthquake struck. The NPR team was there throughout the quake and aftermath. This blog gives you a day-by-day chronicle of the team's experiences before and after the quake.

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