In Partnership With National Geographic

Steve McCurry has been to India more than 80 times throughout his life. The photographer spends most of his year anywhere but home; in fact, he's so nomadic he can hardly call any one place "home." So it comes as no surprise that his latest story in the February issue of National Geographic magazine is about nomads. In a sense, it takes one to know one.

  • Drumbeats draw a crowd as acrobats from a nomadic group perform outside Jodhpur in Rajasthan. Uncounted in the census and lacking permanent housing, these traveling entertainers find it difficult to qualify for government benefits.
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    Drumbeats draw a crowd as acrobats from a nomadic group perform outside Jodhpur in Rajasthan. Uncounted in the census and lacking permanent housing, these traveling entertainers find it difficult to qualify for government benefits.
    All photos by Steve McCurry/National Geographic
  • During the dry season, herding activity slackens, and the nomads alter their routines. In Rajasthan, women turn to grueling wage labor, earning $2 a day for digging a reservoir.
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    During the dry season, herding activity slackens, and the nomads alter their routines. In Rajasthan, women turn to grueling wage labor, earning $2 a day for digging a reservoir.
  • Paras the magician relies on a jester's hat of buttons, coins and shells to attract an audience in Rajasthan. The appeal of his card tricks is steadily dwindling, outdone by the wizardry of television, available now throughout rural India.
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    Paras the magician relies on a jester's hat of buttons, coins and shells to attract an audience in Rajasthan. The appeal of his card tricks is steadily dwindling, outdone by the wizardry of television, available now throughout rural India.
  • A member of the Rabari tribe walks near a power plant. The nomadic lifestyle, in some sense, seems a strange anachronism in India's modernnizing economy.
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    A member of the Rabari tribe walks near a power plant. The nomadic lifestyle, in some sense, seems a strange anachronism in India's modernnizing economy.
  • The scavenged tarp on this cart — and home — may advertise modernity, but the skills and lowly status of the Gadulia Lohar have not changed for generations. Once weapon makers for royalty, the blacksmiths now make and repair tools at roadside camps.
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    The scavenged tarp on this cart — and home — may advertise modernity, but the skills and lowly status of the Gadulia Lohar have not changed for generations. Once weapon makers for royalty, the blacksmiths now make and repair tools at roadside camps.
  • Achala, a herder, marks himself as Rabari with his turban and white garments. The Rabari are "those who live outside," and traditionally they eschew the confines of villages or farms.
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    Achala, a herder, marks himself as Rabari with his turban and white garments. The Rabari are "those who live outside," and traditionally they eschew the confines of villages or farms.

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If you haven't already, stop by McCurry's Web site and browse through the photos. His latest series in National Geographic focuses on nomads, who according to the article, constitute a surprising 7 percent of India's population.

Of the country's nomadic groups, numbering around 500, the Gadulia Lohar is among the best known. "In their illustrious past," writes John Lancaster, "the Gadulia Lohar forged armor for Hindu kings. Today these blacksmiths pitch camp on the outskirts of tiny Indian villages and make simple goods from metal scrap."

It's hard not to romanticize these wanderers. They're the last of the traveling magicians, acrobats, storytellers and snake charmers — vestiges, really, of India's past. The younger generation, now fully acquainted with television and modern technology, has lost interest in folk entertainment. In fact, villagers seem to have grown impatient with nomads in general. "The rapidly modernizing India of call centers and brand-obsessed youth has scant use for tinkers or bear trainers, and pastoralists are in a losing battle with industry and urban sprawl," the article reads.

Learn more about the cultural and political dilemma of India's nomads by checking out the article on ngm.com — where you can also see more of McCurry's photos.

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