NPR Online

Russell Stodghill in Tokyo, Japan:
"The New Year is rung in both literally and figuratively here in Japan with many people going to a nearby temple to ring its bell. Traditionally this is done 108 times - one time for each of the Buddhist sins. I chose the famous Kiyomizu temple in Kyoto as my spot to celebrate the changing of the millennium.

This temple is renowned for its large platform which offers a view from the mountainside of the temple grounds and the city of Kyoto below. This platform is so renowned in Japan, that making a large decision is often referred to as leaping from Kiyomizudera's butai. I picked an interesting spot to observe the festivities - stretched out before me was modern city of Kyoto, softly illuminated and nestled in the mountains, the aberration of Kyoto Tower shining tall above the relatively low city below. Just below me was the main gate where people streamed in from the narrow, shop lined streets. All around the gate was the sparkle of flash photography, as the gate of Kiyomizu Temple is a popular place to document one's visit. To my right I could see the giant temple bell that would be rung at midnight by priests and lay persons swinging a large, suspended log A long line had already formed by eleven for the privilege.

The sound of temple bells began to echo through the quiet streets of Kyoto just before midnight. There was no countdown to the new year but one could see many heads turned down below to the iridescent display of mobile telephones watching for midnight. As midnight a spontaneous but polite applause began and died down almost as suddenly. The lights stayed on and the phones were most certainly working. People received calls, chatted with friends in other places, and diligently worked to input New Year's greetings on their keypads. Today passed with no major problems.

On the descent to the clogged streets below we stopped briefly for some matcha (traditional whisked green tea) and a traditional rice and sweet bean treat. Later we walked passed the idling cars clogged in temple traffic returning to our accommodations. Everyone seemed happy to be starting something new from the roots of something old. I suppose I should feel poignant irony seeing keitai (mobile phones) and kimono as we ring in a traditional new year under electric lighting and television coverage but, somehow, that point of view just seems unnecessarily condescending. It is parochial and myopic and typical of the traditional patronizing tone of the Western (media's) view of Japan.

Throughout the evening many citizens of Kyoto go to Yasaka Shrine to light a rope from the fire of burning prayer plaques. This thin, burning rope is carried and swung through the duration of the night to keep it burning to the end and ensure prosperity in the coming year. A few people even burned their rope at both ends."

Russell listens to NPR on Armed Forces Radio and over the Internet.


Copyright © 2000 National Public Radio