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Russell Stodghill in
Tokyo, Japan:
This temple is renowned for its large platform which offers a view
from the mountainside of the temple grounds and the city of Kyoto
below. This platform is so renowned in Japan, that making a large
decision is often referred to as leaping from Kiyomizudera's butai. I
picked an interesting spot to observe the festivities - stretched out
before me was modern city of Kyoto, softly illuminated and nestled in
the mountains, the aberration of Kyoto Tower shining tall above the
relatively low city below. Just below me was the main gate where people
streamed in from the narrow, shop lined streets. All around the gate
was the sparkle of flash photography, as the gate of Kiyomizu Temple is
a popular place to document one's visit. To my right I could see the
giant temple bell that would be rung at midnight by priests and lay
persons swinging a large, suspended log A long line had already formed
by eleven for the privilege.
The sound of temple bells began to echo through the quiet streets of
Kyoto just before midnight. There was no countdown to the new year but
one could see many heads turned down below to the iridescent display of
mobile telephones watching for midnight. As midnight a spontaneous but
polite applause began and died down almost as suddenly. The lights
stayed on and the phones were most certainly working. People received
calls, chatted with friends in other places, and diligently worked to
input New Year's greetings on their keypads. Today passed with no major
problems.
On the descent to the clogged streets below we stopped briefly for
some matcha (traditional whisked green tea) and a traditional rice and
sweet bean treat. Later we walked passed the idling cars clogged in
temple traffic returning to our accommodations. Everyone seemed happy
to be starting something new from the roots of something old. I suppose
I should feel poignant irony seeing keitai (mobile phones) and kimono as
we ring in a traditional new year under electric lighting and television
coverage but, somehow, that point of view just seems unnecessarily
condescending. It is parochial and myopic and typical of the
traditional patronizing tone of the Western (media's) view of Japan. Throughout the evening many
citizens of Kyoto go to Yasaka Shrine to light a rope from the fire of
burning prayer plaques. This thin, burning rope is carried and swung
through the duration of the night to keep it burning to the end and
ensure prosperity in the coming year. A few people even burned their
rope at both ends."
Russell listens to NPR on Armed Forces Radio and over the Internet.
Copyright © 2000 National Public Radio
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