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A Grand Old Grilling
Professional Chefs and Amateur Grill Artists Share Tips, Recipes
 Listen to the Talk of the Nation discussion.
July 3, 2002 -- Nothing says July 4th like grilling -- it's the quintessential American cooking experience. But what actually constitutes a barbecue? For Talk of the Nation on the eve of Independence Day, professional chefs and amateur cooks talk about the history and techniques of grilling, and share favorite recipes.
Grilled Swordfish with Artichokes, Tomatoes, and Olives
Reprinted with permission from License to Grill, by Chris Schlesinger and John Willoughby (William Morrow & Company, 1997)
SERVINGS: 4
INGREDIENTS:
2 large artichokes
1/4 cup vegetable oil
Salt and freshly cracked black pepper to taste
1 large tomato, cored and diced large
1/2 cup pitted brine-cured black olives
1/4 cup roughly chopped fresh parsley
1 teaspoon minced garlic
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice (about 1 lemon)
4 8-ounce swordfish steaks, about 1 1/2 inches thick
DIRECTIONS:
1) Cut off the top third of each artichoke, snip off the sharp tips from the remaining leaves, and trim the bottom slightly so that it is even.
2) In a small stockpot, bring 3 quarts of lightly salted water to a boil. Add the artichokes and boil for about 20 minutes, or until the outer leaves pull away easily with a sharp tug. Drain the artichokes, immediately plunge them into ice and water to stop the cooking process, and then drain again.
3) Cut the artichokes in half lengthwise, brush them lightly with 2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil, and sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Place the artichokes on the grill over a medium-hot fire, cut side down, and cook them for about 10 minutes, or until the cut sides are well-browned. Remove the artichokes and cut each half in half.
4) In medium bowl, combine the artichokes, tomato, olives, parsley, garlic, red pepper flakes, olive oil, and lemon juice and mix well. Set aside.
5) Check to be sure the fire is still at the medium-hot level. If it is not, add a bit of fuel and wait until it is caught. Rub the swordfish steaks with the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste, and place on the grill. Cook for 5 to 7 minutes per side, turning only once. To check for doneness: Cut into one of the steaks; it should be just opaque throughout. Remove from the grill and serve, topped with the artichoke mixture.
Grilled Ratatouille
Reprinted with permission from The Gas Grill Gourmet by A. Cort Sinnes with John Puscheck (The Harvard Common Press, 1996)
SERVINGS: 6 to 8
INGREDIENTS:
1 large eggplant, peeled and cut in 1-ince cubes
1 medium onion, cut in quarters
3 zucchini (or any other summer squash), cut in ½-inch rounds
2 bell peppers, cut in strips about 1 inch wide
12 paste or plum tomatoes (or 18 cherry tomatoes)
12 to 24 bamboo skewers, soaked in water
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 to 4 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
1 to 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
Fresh lemon juice or balsamic vinegar to taste
Salt and fresh-ground black pepper to taste
DIRECTIONS:
1) Thread the eggplant, onion, zucchini, bell peppers, and tomatoes on separate skewers. Keep all of each type of vegetable on separate skewers, and use 2 parallel skewers as needed. Brush the brochettes liberally with some of the olive oil.
2) Preheat the grill for 10 to 15 minutes, with all the burners on high.
3) Once the grill is hot, turn one burner off and turn the other(s) to medium. Position the skewered vegetables over the burner that is turned off, close the grill's lid, and cook for 15 to 25 minutes, turning the brochettes as needed. Some vegetables, such as the tomatoes, will cook more quickly than the others. With the exception of the onions, which should be thoroughly wilted when done, remove each type of vegetable while it still has a little crunch left.
4) As each type of vegetable is done, slide the pieces off the skewers into a large bowl. Halve or quarter the tomatoes before mixing them with the other vegetables. Season the mixture with olive oil, garlic, oregano, and basil. Taste the vegetables and add lemon juice or balsamic vinegar and salt and pepper to taste. Toss the mixture lightly.
5) Serve the ratatouille immediately, or cover the bowl and refrigerate it until the next day.
Grilled Pineapple with White Pepper and Palm Sugar
Reprinted with permission from Asian Grilling by Su-Mei Yu (William Morrow & Company, 2002)
SERVINGS: 6
INGREDIENTS:
1/2 palm sugar or brown sugar
1/2 cup coconut cream
1 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
1 small pineapple, peeled, cored, and cut into 1/2 -inch slices
Vegetable oil spray
DIRECTIONS:
1) Heat the grill.
2) While waiting for the grill to get hot, combine the palm sugar and coconut cream in a saucepan and cook over medium heat until the sugar is dissolved. Transfer to a bowl and set aside.
3) Sprinkle the white pepper over the pineapples and generously spray with vegetable oil. Place on the grill over medium heat and grill, turning frequently to prevent burning, until slightly charred and softened, about 7 minutes. Add to the bowl with the sauce and mix well. Cover and let sit for at least 15 minutes or longer, or refrigerate for up to a day, before serving.
Grilled Mangoes with Ginger Syrup
Reprinted with permission from Asian Grilling by Su-Mei Yu (William Morrow & Company, 2002)
SERVINGS: 6
INGREDIENTS:
1/3 cup rock sugar
2/3 cup water
14 this slices ginger, crushed
3 firm but ripe mangoes
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
Springs of mint for garnish
DIRECTIONS:
1) Heat the grill.
2) While waiting for the grill to get hot, combine the sugar, water, and ginger in a saucepan and cook over high heat, stirring constantly, until the sugar is dissolved. Remove from the heat and let sit until cool. Strain the syrup into a bowl, discard the ginger, and set aside.
3) Peel the mangoes. Stand each one up and slice down on either side of the flat pit to remove the flesh in 2 large slices. Brush the mango slices with melted butter and put on the grill over medium heat. Grill, turning occasionally with a spatula and brushing with more butter, until slightly charred, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl.
4) Add the ginger syrup to the mangoes and toss gently, then cover and let sit for 1 hour. Serve with sprigs of mint, or with ice cream.
Grilled Big Black-and-Blue Steak for Two
Reprinted with permission from The Thrill of the Grill by Chris Schlesinger and John Willoughby (William Morrow & Company, 1990)
INGREDIENTS:
1 giant 1 1/2-inch thick steak (choose one of the following):
1 2-pound boneless Delmonico
1 2 1/2-pound bone-in Delmonico
1 2 1/2-pound T-bone
1 2 1/2-pound porterhouse
1/4 cup olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper to taste
DIRECTIONS:
1) Allow the steak to come to room temperature, then rub it with oil and salt and pepper to taste.
2) Over a medium-hot fire, grill the steak until the exterior is very brown, almost black, and very crusty, about 8 to 9 minutes per side. Some flare-ups might occur. If they do, remove the steak from the grill using long tongs, allow the fire to calm down, and place the steak back on the grill. To check for doneness, nick the meat on one side and look at the color. It will appear slightly rarer than it will actually be after resting.
3) Remove the steak from fire, allow it to rest 5 minutes, and serve with a baked potato and green salad.
Orange-Sweet Potato Hobo Pack
Reprinted with permission from License to Grill, by Chris Schlesinger and John Willoughby (William Morrow & Company, 1997)
SERVINGS: 4 as a side dish
INGREDIENTS:
4 medium sweet potatoes, washed but not peeled, cut into rounds about 2 inches thick
1 orange, thinly sliced (including peel)
1 large red onion, peeled and quartered
1/3 cup raisins
1/4 cup olive oil
1/4 cup unsalted butter, cut into small bits
Salt and freshly cracked black pepper to taste
1/3 cut fresh lemon juice (about 1 large lemon)
1/3 cup honey
1/3 cup roughly chopped fresh parsley
DIRECTIONS:
1) In a large bowl, combine the sweet potatoes, orange, onion, raisins, olive oil, and butter. Toss lightly, sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste, and toss lightly again.
2) Lay out two sheets of heavy-duty foil, each about 2 feet long, one on top of the other. Place the sweet potato mixture in center, then lay a third length of heavy-duty foil over the top. Fold the edges of the sheets together on all sides, closing the pack, then roll them up until they bump into the food, forming a ridge around its perimeter. Place the pack right side up in the center of a fourth length of foil and fold the four sides over the top of the packet, one after another.
3) Now the package is ready for the coals. The fire should have passed its peak of intensity and be dying down, so that it consists primarily of glowing coals covered with a thin film of gray ash but very few flickering flames - in other words, you want a medium to low dying fire. Clear a place for the foil packet, leaving a thin layer of coals. Place the packet on the cleared area and heap up coals all around, but not directly on top. Cook, keeping watch and shifting the packet as needed so it is continuously in contact with glowing coals, for 30 to 35 minutes, depending on the intensity of the coals.
4) While the hobo pack is cooking, combine the lemon juice, honey, and parsley in a small bowl and mix well to combine.
5) Remove the foil pack from the coals, unroll the foil, drizzle the vegetables with the lemon honey mixture, and serve at once.
Grilled Cheese on a Skewer
Reprinted with permission from The Gas Grill Gourmet by A. Cort Sinnes with John Puscheck (The Harvard Common Press, 1996)
SERVINGS: 6 to 8
INGREDIENTS:
1 large loaf coarse-textured French or Italian bread
About 1/2 pound Gruyère, Emmenthaler, or Monterey jack cheese
6 bamboo skewers, soaked in water
About 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
DIRECTIONS:
1) Preheat the grill for 10 to 15 minutes, with all the burners on high.
2) While the grill is preheating, prepare the bread and cheese. Remove the crust from the loaf of bread, cut the bread into 3/4-inch slices, and then cut each slice into pieces about 2 inches square. Cut the cheese into slices that are 1/4 inch thick and about 2 inches square.
3) Thread the bread and cheese square onto the skewers: begin with bread, add cheese and bread in turn, and end with bread. Brush the skewed bread and cheese with olive oil.
4) Once the grill is hot, turn one burner off and turn the other(s) to medium. Position the skewered bread and cheese over the burner that is off. Close the grills lid and cook the skewers for approximately 8 to 10 minutes, turning them several times, until the bread is lightly toasted on all sides and the cheese has melted.
5) Transfer the food to your work surface and pull out each skewer. Place the "loaves" of grilled bread and cheese on a platter. Tear off individual slices, and pass the Dijon mustard, please!
Roast Leg of Lamb with White Beans
Reprinted with permission from The Gas Grill Gourmet by A. Cort Sinnes with John Puscheck (The Harvard Common Press, 1996)
SERVINGS: 6 to 8
INGREDIENTS:
4-pound to 6-pound leg of lamb
2 garlic cloves, peeled and cut into 8 slivers total
3 tablespoons butter, softened (if the leg has been trimmed of fat)
Salt and fresh-ground black pepper
Chopped fresh parsley, for garnish (optional)
White Beans
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, minced
1 medium carrot, minced
Two 15-ounce cans small white beans, drained and rinsed
1 can chicken or vegetable stock
2 to 3 large garlic cloves, pressed
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon dried thyme leaves
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon fresh-ground black pepper
DIRECTIONS:
1) Preheat the gill for 10 to 15 minutes, with all the burners on high.
2) While the grill is preheating, use the point of a sharp knife to make 8 incisions, deep enough to hold the garlic, across the top of the leg of lamb. Insert a garlic sliver into each incision. If the leg has been trimmed of fat, rub the softened butter on the lamb. Sprinkle the lamb with salt and pepper.
3) Once the grill is hot, turn on e burner off and turn the other(s) to medium. Place the lamb over the burner that is off. Close the grill's lid and cook the leg of lamb, rotating it every half-hour or so, for 2 to 2 1/2 hours. This cooking time yields a leg of lamb cooked to medium of 160o F for medium, and 170 o F for well-done. Be sure to use a meat thermometer, inserted deep into the meat, to measure the internal temperature. Remove the leg from the grill when the thermometer registers 10 degrees shy of the desired temperature.
4) While the lamb cooks, prepare the white beans. In a large saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion and carrot, and sauté until the onion is soft and transparent, about 4 minutes. Add the beans, chicken or vegetable stock, garlic, and the seasonings. Bring the mixture to a boil and then simmer it, uncovered, for about 20 minutes, stirring the beans occasionally. When done, the beans should be neither too soupy nor too thick. Remove the pan from heat.
5) Transfer the leg of lamb to a carving board, and cover it loosely with a foil tent. Let the lamb rest for 10 minutes or so; it will continue to "cook" to the desired degree of doneness. Meanwhile, reheat the beans, adding more stock, if necessary, to maintain the right consistency.
6) To serve, carve the lamb into fairly thin slices. Arrange slices on a serving platter along with the white beans; pour any juices that may have accumulated on the carving board over the sliced lamb and beans. Garnish with a little parsley, if desired.
Grilled Marinated Catfish in Banana Leaves
Reprinted with permission from Asian Grilling by Su-Mei Yu (William Morrow & Company, 2002)
SERVINGS: 6
INGREDIENTS:
1 teaspoon sea salt
6 garlic cloves, minced
15 chiles de árbol, softened in hot water, dried, and minced
1 teaspoon minced cilantro stems with roots
1 stalk lemongrass, tough outer layers and green parts removed, minced
1 tablespoon minced galangal or ginger
1 teaspoon minced kaffir or regular lime zest
1 shallot, minced
1 teaspoon fermented shrimp paste or red miso
1 large egg, slightly beaten
2 tablespoons fish sauce (nam pla)
1 cup plus 6 tablespoon coconut cream
2 pounds catfish fillets, slice into approximately ½ x 3-inch-long strips
Six 18-inch squares aluminum foil
Six 9 x 10-inch pieces banana leaves
1 small cabbage, leaves separated, parboiled until tender, drained and thoroughly dried
3 to 4 Thai basil sprigs; leaves only
2 kaffir lime leaves, slivered or slivered zest of 1 lime
2 red Serrano chiles, seeded and slivered
DIRECTIONS:
1) Using a mortar and pestle, pound the salt and garlic into a fine paste. One at a time, add the chiles, cilantro, lemongrass, galangal, minced lime zest, shallot, and shrimp paste, in sequence, adding each one only after the previous ingredient has been pureed and incorporated into the paste.
2) Transfer the paste to a mixing bowl. Add the beat egg and fish sauce and mix well. Add 1 cup of the coconut cream and mix to combine. Add the catfish and stir to coat.
3) Heat the grill.
4) While waiting for the grill to get hot, line an aluminum foil square with a banana leaf. Stack a couple of cabbage leaves in the center of the banana leaf and top with about 1 cup of the fish mixture. Garnish with a tablespoon of the remaining coconut cream, a couple of basil leaves, several slivers of kaffir lime leaf, and some chile slivers. Fold the banana leaf over the filling to make a square package, and wrap it in the aluminum foil to make a tight pouch. Repeat with the remaining ingredients.
5) Rake the hot coals into a mound on one side of the grill. Put the pouches on the rack directly over the hot coals and grill for 5 minutes. Move the pounces to the empty side, cover and grill-smoke for about 9 minutes. Be sure to open the air vents in the top of the grill cover. Open one of the pouches to check: the fish should be firm and white.
6) Transfer the pouches to a serving platter, open them, and serve.
In Depth
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