Carnaval in Bolivia: Doing the Dance of the Devils

Carnaval in Bolivia featuring the Diablada mask photo courtesy Joe Palca, NPR

March 3, 2001 -- Every year around this time, people gather in Bolivia's high plains city of Oruro for Carnaval and La Diablada, the dance of the devils. In the thin air at 13,000 feet, costumed men wearing masks with terrifying, bug-like eyes and fiery feathers dance with equally impressive angels in a re-enactment of the triumph of good over evil. Listen to a report from NPR's Joe Palca.

The spectacular costumes are the creations of Diablada clubs in Oruro. With the support of local businesses, members of the clubs fabricate the outfits which may cost hundreds of dollars.

The festivities begin the first Saturday before Ash Wednesday with a glorious parade led by the brightly costumed Michael the Archangel, devils, bears and condors. The procession is followed by vehicles adorned with jewels, coins and silver service commemorating ancient religious rites. Then come figures from Bolivia's history including Incas and conquistadores.

Carnaval Dance photo courtesy Joe Palca, NPR

Arriving in the football stadium the dancers conduct battles between good and evil. When it is apparent that good has triumphed, the dancers retire to the Santuario de la Virgen del Socavon to celebrate mass.



Like Mardi Gras in New Orleans, Carnaval in Oruro also is a day of drinking and debauchery. NPR science correspondent Joe Palca checked out the 24-hour-long celebration while on vacation in Bolivia. Listen to Weekend All Things Considered Saturday to hear his postcard from Oruro.

Find out more at the Carnaval de Oruro Web site.