Geography of Heaven: Kawakarpo Diaries http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=5163792&ft=1&f=5163792 Read NPR engineer Bill McQuay's notes from his 150-mile trek around Kawakarpo in Southern China. en Copyright 2013 NPR - For Personal Use Only NPR API RSS Generator 0.94 Tue, 24 Jan 2006 17:03:00 -0500 http://media.npr.org/images/npr_news_123x20.gif Geography of Heaven: Kawakarpo Diaries http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=5163792&ft=1&f=5163792 October 17: Camping with Fellow Pilgrims While we have tents, a fuel-burning stove, canisters of fuel and seven horses, our neighbors have the clothes on their back, a large bag of barley flower (called tsampa) and utensils to prepare butter tea and possibly barley bread. Tue, 24 Jan 2006 17:03:00 -0500 http://www.npr.org/2006/01/24/5164532/october-17-camping-with-fellow-pilgrims?ft=1&f=5163792 http://www.npr.org/2006/01/24/5164532/october-17-camping-with-fellow-pilgrims?ft=1&f=5163792 While we have tents, a fuel-burning stove, canisters of fuel and seven horses, our neighbors have the clothes on their back, a large bag of barley flower (called tsampa) and utensils to prepare butter tea and possibly barley bread.

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]]> October 13: Karma in Translation He tells me that if I am concerned about the benefits that I will receive from my pilgrimage, I can expect little. He suggests that a better attitude would be to perform the pilgrimage in the hope that it would benefit all beings. Mon, 23 Jan 2006 20:37:00 -0500 http://www.npr.org/2006/01/23/5163944/october-13-karma-in-translation?ft=1&f=5163792 http://www.npr.org/2006/01/23/5163944/october-13-karma-in-translation?ft=1&f=5163792 He tells me that if I am concerned about the benefits that I will receive from my pilgrimage, I can expect little. He suggests that a better attitude would be to perform the pilgrimage in the hope that it would benefit all beings.

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]]> October 31: The Final Mountain Pass Having reached the final pass of the pilgrimage I am excited, delighted and grateful for having had this opportunity to share this amazing journey with so many devout people. It's overwhelming — and frankly indescribable. Thu, 19 Jan 2006 17:17:00 -0500 http://www.npr.org/2006/01/19/5166443/october-31-the-final-mountain-pass?ft=1&f=5163792 http://www.npr.org/2006/01/19/5166443/october-31-the-final-mountain-pass?ft=1&f=5163792 Having reached the final pass of the pilgrimage I am excited, delighted and grateful for having had this opportunity to share this amazing journey with so many devout people. It's overwhelming — and frankly indescribable.

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]]> October 30: Bracing for the Shula Pass I am tired after five-and-a-half hours of trekking up the spine of this mountain. I'm almost too tired to prepare my recording equipment for our long trek across the snow-covered Shula pass. Thu, 19 Jan 2006 17:08:00 -0500 http://www.npr.org/2006/01/19/5166420/october-30-bracing-for-the-shula-pass?ft=1&f=5163792 http://www.npr.org/2006/01/19/5166420/october-30-bracing-for-the-shula-pass?ft=1&f=5163792 I am tired after five-and-a-half hours of trekking up the spine of this mountain. I'm almost too tired to prepare my recording equipment for our long trek across the snow-covered Shula pass.

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]]> October 28: The Scent of Burning Juniper The village fades into the distance below us but smoke from the houses still fills the air with the delightful smell of sweet burning juniper branches. Every morning, the head of each household rises before dawn and burns the juniper and prays for help from the mountain god. Thu, 19 Jan 2006 17:06:00 -0500 http://www.npr.org/2006/01/19/5166401/october-28-the-scent-of-burning-juniper?ft=1&f=5163792 http://www.npr.org/2006/01/19/5166401/october-28-the-scent-of-burning-juniper?ft=1&f=5163792 The village fades into the distance below us but smoke from the houses still fills the air with the delightful smell of sweet burning juniper branches. Every morning, the head of each household rises before dawn and burns the juniper and prays for help from the mountain god.

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]]> October 26: Personal Space, Private Lives It never fails, whenever we camp, that any number of Tibetans young or old will walk up to our campsite, move alongside or in front of you and just... watch. Thu, 19 Jan 2006 17:04:00 -0500 http://www.npr.org/2006/01/19/5166335/october-26-personal-space-private-lives?ft=1&f=5163792 http://www.npr.org/2006/01/19/5166335/october-26-personal-space-private-lives?ft=1&f=5163792 It never fails, whenever we camp, that any number of Tibetans young or old will walk up to our campsite, move alongside or in front of you and just... watch.

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]]> October 24-25: Shards of the Cultural Revolution Perhaps this is the personal transformation that I will experience — a transformation from respect for the spiritual commitment of the pilgrims to respect for the mountain deity, Kawakarpo. Thu, 19 Jan 2006 17:02:00 -0500 http://www.npr.org/2006/01/19/5166221/october-24-25-shards-of-the-cultural-revolution?ft=1&f=5163792 http://www.npr.org/2006/01/19/5166221/october-24-25-shards-of-the-cultural-revolution?ft=1&f=5163792 Perhaps this is the personal transformation that I will experience — a transformation from respect for the spiritual commitment of the pilgrims to respect for the mountain deity, Kawakarpo.

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]]> October 16: Crossing the Langtsa Bridge Our five horsemen and cook quickly load our seven pack animals with enough food and fuel to see us through 20 days of mountain trekking. We say goodbye to our driver, his wife and the last motorized transportation we will see until our pilgrimage is completed. Thu, 19 Jan 2006 17:00:00 -0500 http://www.npr.org/2006/01/19/5164522/october-16-crossing-the-langtsa-bridge?ft=1&f=5163792 http://www.npr.org/2006/01/19/5164522/october-16-crossing-the-langtsa-bridge?ft=1&f=5163792 Our five horsemen and cook quickly load our seven pack animals with enough food and fuel to see us through 20 days of mountain trekking. We say goodbye to our driver, his wife and the last motorized transportation we will see until our pilgrimage is completed.

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]]> October 20: Down from Dokarla Pass We will rest here tonight following our daunting trek over the Dokarla pass. Despite the early morning rain, our trek out of Yudrathang and the vertigo-producing ascent up to the Dokarla pass, we arrive here four hours ahead of schedule. Thu, 19 Jan 2006 17:00:00 -0500 http://www.npr.org/2006/01/19/5166186/october-20-down-from-dokarla-pass?ft=1&f=5163792 http://www.npr.org/2006/01/19/5166186/october-20-down-from-dokarla-pass?ft=1&f=5163792 We will rest here tonight following our daunting trek over the Dokarla pass. Despite the early morning rain, our trek out of Yudrathang and the vertigo-producing ascent up to the Dokarla pass, we arrive here four hours ahead of schedule.

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]]> October 11: The Laws of Disappearing Legroom O'Hare to Beijing, Beijing to Kunming, Kunming to Gyalthang... during each step of my journey, the legroom on the plane grows smaller and smaller. Apparently, I need some spiritual cleansing. Thu, 19 Jan 2006 16:59:00 -0500 http://www.npr.org/2006/01/19/5163883/october-11-the-laws-of-disappearing-legroom?ft=1&f=5163792 http://www.npr.org/2006/01/19/5163883/october-11-the-laws-of-disappearing-legroom?ft=1&f=5163792 O'Hare to Beijing, Beijing to Kunming, Kunming to Gyalthang... during each step of my journey, the legroom on the plane grows smaller and smaller. Apparently, I need some spiritual cleansing.

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]]> October 18: An Injured Yak's Cosmic Fate A yak bull passes us, heading downward towards a village. The yak is limping and its right front leg appears to be broken. I wonder what fate might await him when he returns home... Thu, 19 Jan 2006 16:56:00 -0500 http://www.npr.org/2006/01/19/5166081/october-18-an-injured-yaks-cosmic-fate?ft=1&f=5163792 http://www.npr.org/2006/01/19/5166081/october-18-an-injured-yaks-cosmic-fate?ft=1&f=5163792 A yak bull passes us, heading downward towards a village. The yak is limping and its right front leg appears to be broken. I wonder what fate might await him when he returns home...

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]]> October 15: Some Unexpected Passengers After a visit to Ringha Temple, we drive toward the old trading town of Deqin. I've had no sleep, I'm coming down with a cold — sore throat, stuffy nose, upset stomach — and I'm wondering what I got myself into. Thu, 19 Jan 2006 14:41:00 -0500 http://www.npr.org/2006/01/19/5164510/october-15-some-unexpected-passengers?ft=1&f=5163792 http://www.npr.org/2006/01/19/5164510/october-15-some-unexpected-passengers?ft=1&f=5163792 After a visit to Ringha Temple, we drive toward the old trading town of Deqin. I've had no sleep, I'm coming down with a cold — sore throat, stuffy nose, upset stomach — and I'm wondering what I got myself into.

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