Dan Brown pets "Sprocket," his family's 4-year-old, sole milking cow, before hosing her down at his farm in Blue Hill, Maine. Brown has become the poster child for Maine's food sovereignty movement. John Clarke Russ/Bangor Daily News hide caption

itoggle caption John Clarke Russ/Bangor Daily News

John Clark pours raw milk into a glass at Applecheek Farm in Hyde Park, Vt. Toby Talbot/AP hide caption

itoggle caption Toby Talbot/AP