In another era, this plate of Spanish mackerel topped with wild tamarack, basswood leaves, garlic mustard, fiddlehead ferns, and knotweed might seem cheap. Not anymore. Courtesy of Leif Hedendal hide caption

itoggle caption Courtesy of Leif Hedendal

Leah Lizarondo. with her hands covered in plastic bags, gathers stinging nettles. Larkin Page-Jacobs for NPR hide caption

itoggle caption Larkin Page-Jacobs for NPR