Tucker Jones, a biologist with the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife, counts sturgeon in the Columbia River. He says only 1 percent of sturgeon survive the 15 to 25 years it takes for them to start reproducing. Courtesy Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife hide caption

itoggle caption Courtesy Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife

This Vivace "no-kill" caviar was harvested from a Siberian sturgeon via a massage-based technique. The fish didn't die. But did the taste survive? Alastair Bland for NPR hide caption

itoggle caption Alastair Bland for NPR