Judge Michael Zusman's bialys are topped with roasted onions, poppy seeds and coarse salt. Daniel Zwerdling/NPR hide caption

itoggle caption Daniel Zwerdling/NPR

Russ and Daughters, which opened on the Lower East Side in 1914, specializes in smoked fish. Courtesy of Jen Snow, Russ and Daughters hide caption

itoggle caption Courtesy of Jen Snow, Russ and Daughters