Nick Wiseman, partner at DGS Delicatessen, inspects the kitchen as an employee prepares pastrami sandwiches for lunch. Daniel M.N. Turner/NPR hide caption

itoggle caption Daniel M.N. Turner/NPR

Russ and Daughters, which opened on the Lower East Side in 1914, specializes in smoked fish. Courtesy of Jen Snow, Russ and Daughters hide caption

itoggle caption Courtesy of Jen Snow, Russ and Daughters