Using dipnets --€” which have nets up to 5 feet in diameter at the end --€” isn't easy, and the river can get pretty crowded. Robert Carter, a novice dipnetter, holds up the first fish he caught after a day on the Kenai River. Annie Feidt/Alaska Public Media hide caption

itoggle caption Annie Feidt/Alaska Public Media

Paul Greenberg says the decline of local fish markets, and the resulting sequestration of seafood to a corner of our supermarkets, has contributed to "the facelessness and comodification of seafood." J. Scott Applewhite/AP hide caption

itoggle caption J. Scott Applewhite/AP