Excerpt: 'A Passion for Ice Cream'

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Karen Grigsby Bates recommends A Passion for Ice Cream by Emily Luchetti and Sheri Giblin for Day to Day's annual summer roundup of book choices.

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See other summer reading suggestions from Karen Grigsby Bates.

Cho Cho Cho

Julie Ring dreamed up this triple-chocolate creation when she owned Julie's Supper Club in San Francisco. The first cho is a chocolate brownie base, the second a white chocolate ice cream studded with milk and dark chocolate chunks, and the third, a dark velvety chocolate sauce smothering the first two. It quickly became a menu staple. She never considered altering it for fear of an uprising by loyal customers.

Serves 8

Multi-Chocolate Ice Cream

6 large egg yolks

1/2 cup sugar

1/8 teaspoon kosher salt

1 1/2 cups whole milk

2 cups heavy (whipping) cream

5 ounces white chocolate, finely chopped

4 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped into chunks

4 ounces milk chocolate, chopped into chunks

Brownies

8 ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped

1 ounce unsweetened chocolate, finely chopped

5 ounces (10 tablespoons) unsalted butter

3 large eggs

1 1/4 cups sugar

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

1/8 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

3 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder

Cocoa Sauce, cold

To make the ice cream: In a bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, 1/4 cup of the sugar, and the salt. Combine the milk, cream, and remaining 1/4 cup sugar in a heavy saucepan. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until almost simmering. Slowly pour the milk and cream into the egg mixture, whisking as you pour. Return the cream mixture to the saucepan. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly with a heat-resistant plastic or wooden spatula, until the custard reaches 175°F and lightly coats the spatula. Whisk in the white chocolate until melted.

Strain the custard into a clean bowl and cool over an ice bath until room temperature. Refrigerate the custard for at least 4 hours or up to overnight. Place the dark and milk chocolates in a bowl and place the bowl in the freezer. Churn the ice cream base in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Fold the ice cream into the chocolate. Freeze until scoopable, about 4 hours, depending on your freezer.

To make the brownies: Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease the bottom of a 9-by-13-inch baking pan and line it with parchment paper. Melt the chocolates and butter in a double boiler over hot water. In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs and sugar. Whisk in the melted chocolate mixture. Sift together and then stir in the flour, salt, baking powder, and cocoa powder. Spread the batter in the prepared pan.

Bake until a skewer inserted in the center, comes out fudgy and not dry, about 20 minutes. Let cool to room temperature. Run a knife around the inside edge of the pan. Place a cutting board on top of the pan. Invert the pan and board. Remove the pan and carefully peel off the parchment paper.

To serve: Trim the edges off the brownies and cut into 1-by-3-inch rectangles. Place 2 to 3 pieces right side up on each plate. (There will be extra brownies for nibbling.) Place a scoop of ice cream on top of the brownies. Cover with cocoa sauce. Serve immediately.

In Advance: The brownies can be made up to 2 days in advance. Store at room temperature, wrapped in plastic wrap.

Iced Espresso Floats with White Chocolate Ice Cream

Italians are as crazy for gelato as Americans are for ice cream, and there are many Italian dessert ideas we can import to this country. Affogato—it translates as “drowned”—is one of them. It is a combination of cold espresso and/or alcohol and any flavor of gelato. The gelato is drowned in the liquid. In Italy, it takes many forms; there is no one classic way to serve it. Here, I take the original concept and flood the ice cream even more for a drinkable version.

Serves 6

White Chocolate Ice Cream

3 large egg yolks

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1/8 teaspoon kosher salt

1 1/2 cups milk

1 2/3 cups heavy (whipping) cream

4 ounces white chocolate, finely chopped

Espresso

6 cups cold brewed espresso or strong coffee

7 tablespoons superfine sugar

To make the ice cream: In a bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, 1/4 cup of the sugar, and the salt. Cook the milk, cream, and remaining 1/4 cup sugar in a heavy saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until almost simmering. Slowly pour the milk and cream into the egg and sugar mixture, whisking as you pour.

Return the cream mixture to the saucepan. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly with a heat-resistant plastic or wooden spatula, until the custard reaches 175°F and lightly coats the spatula. Whisk in the white chocolate until smooth.

Strain the custard into a clean bowl and cool over an ice bath until room temperature. Refrigerate the custard for at least 4 hours or up to overnight. Churn in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Freeze until scoopable, about 4 hours, depending on your freezer.

To serve: Mix together the espresso and superfine sugar in a large pitcher. Fill 6 tall glasses two-thirds full of cold espresso. Place a big scoop of white chocolate ice cream in each glass. Serve immediately, with a long spoon and a straw.

In Advance: The espresso should be made the same day the float is served.

Adapted from A Passion for Ice Cream by Emily Luchetti and Sheri Giblin. Copyright © 2006, Emily Luchetti and Sheri Giblin. Reprinted by permission of Chronicle Books. All rights reserved.

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A Passion for Ice Cream
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Emily Luchetti and Sheri Giblin

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