Moscow: Georgian Fare at Genazvale Restaurant

Genazvale's rough-hewn log walls are the right atmosphere to enjoy classic Georgian dishes. i i

Genazvale's cozy tables and rough-hewn log walls provide the right atmosphere in which to enjoy classic Georgian dishes. Gregory Feifer, NPR hide caption

itoggle caption Gregory Feifer, NPR
Genazvale's rough-hewn log walls are the right atmosphere to enjoy classic Georgian dishes.

Genazvale's cozy tables and rough-hewn log walls provide the right atmosphere in which to enjoy classic Georgian dishes.

Gregory Feifer, NPR
Genazvale Restaurant in a pre-Revolutionary neighborhood near the Kremlin. i i

Moscow's restaurant boom is making the city a diner's paradise, but Genazvale, located in a pre-revolutionary neighborhood near the Kremlin, is still the best place for classic Georgian cuisine. Gregory Feifer, NPR hide caption

itoggle caption Gregory Feifer, NPR
Genazvale Restaurant in a pre-Revolutionary neighborhood near the Kremlin.

Moscow's restaurant boom is making the city a diner's paradise, but Genazvale, located in a pre-revolutionary neighborhood near the Kremlin, is still the best place for classic Georgian cuisine.

Gregory Feifer, NPR

Moscow's restaurant boom is making the city a diner's paradise, but my favorite remains what was always best here: Georgian. And Genazvale is the best place for it.

The restaurant is located in a pre-revolutionary neighborhood near the Kremlin. Avoid the kitschy VIP main section; head to the right-side entrance and get a table in a cozy back corner.

There — amid the rough-hewn log walls — load up on hors d'oeuvres: delicious eggplant with walnut paste, spicy kidney bean dishes called lobio, and the all-time classic, khachapuri, a cheese bread.

The best, most inspired of these cheese breads is the "boat," a specialty of the Georgian region of Ajaria. It comes topped with a raw egg and butter. Diners tear off pieces and dunk them in the middle.

Then move on to shashlyk kebabs — lamb, pork, sturgeon or any combination — with any number of sauces, including spicy tkemali plum sauce or a sweet pomegranate sauce called narsharab.

While Moscow's ban on the import of Georgian wine remains in effect, a nice Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon comes close to the robust, tannic kind that Georgia does well.

Go to Genazvale to eat seriously, often with your hands. I come with friends to sit for hours, poring over the latest scandals of Moscow life that have taken place since the last session.

Genazvale — 12/1 Ulitsa Ostozhenka, Moscow, Russia. Telephone: 7-495-202-0445.

Directions: Outside the Koropotkinskaya Metro entrance, locate the statue of Friedrich Engels opposite the massive Christ the Savior Cathedral. Ostozhenka Street begins behind Engels's right side. Genazvale is on the right side, several blocks down.

Comments

 

Please keep your community civil. All comments must follow the NPR.org Community rules and terms of use, and will be moderated prior to posting. NPR reserves the right to use the comments we receive, in whole or in part, and to use the commenter's name and location, in any medium. See also the Terms of Use, Privacy Policy and Community FAQ.