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MELISSA BLOCK, host:

This is ALL THINGS CONSIDERED from NPR News. I'm Melissa Block.

ROBERT SIEGEL, host:

And I'm Robert Siegel.

Seafood is not only central to the Japanese diet, it's part of the country's national identity. And this month's massive tsunami ripped through many coastal towns, devastating the boats and ports and processing plants that have been at the heart of those communities for generations.

As Rob Gifford reports, rebuilding Japan's shattered fishing industry will not be easy.

Mr. YUTA SUZUKI: What can I say? What can I say?

ROB GIFFORD: Yuta Suzuki stands surveying the pride of his fishing fleet, an 800-ton vessel called the Myojinmaru. It's a beautiful boat, hundreds of feet long with a pink and white hull, sturdy enough to withstand regular trips to the Indian Ocean to catch tuna. The only problem is that it's sitting in the middle of the street that runs down to the harbor of Kesennuma. Such was the force of the tsunami that it lifted the Myojinmaru and several other huge fishing boats up, dumped them on land and then receded. Now, Suzuki has many things on his mind.

Mr. SUZUKI: Government and insurance. (Foreign language spoken)

GIFFORD: There are a lot of government assistance and insurance claim issues to sort out. But Suzuki, the third generation in his family to run the fishing business, is still grappling with the magnitude of what has happened here.

Mr. SUZUKI: Positive thinking...

GIFFORD: We do need to have positive thinking, he says. It could take several years to rebuild.

He and his family escaped the tsunami by a few minutes. His home is gone, and two of his employees are still missing. The boat is beached, but it's not a human being.

(Soundbite of heavy machinery)

GIFFORD: The port of Kesennuma is already starting to get things moving. A dredger is working to check the seabed is safe for a supply ship to dock. The problem is that the fishing industry here and all along this part of the coast had been struggling even before the tsunami, hit by high costs and young people moving away.

Beside the harbor, several men are looking out over what used to be their place of work. Takashi Yao stands beside his 90-year-old father, who worked in the fishing industry all his life. Takashi has no doubt that with government help, Kesennuma will rise again.

Mr. TAKASHI YAO: We believe we can rebuild because people believe it. People want to rebuild all of these.

(Soundbite of crows)

GIFFORD: Ominously, overhead, crows, not seagulls, circle. Kesennuma was one of the largest fishing ports in Japan, so it may be that with government help it will be able to rebuild. But a little farther up the coast, at the smaller town of Kamaishi, it's much less clear.

Well, the center of the fishing industry here in Kamaishi was the old fish market here down by the waterfront. And now, it's an absolute scene of devastation. Everything is - the roof has fallen in. It's completely shredded. And like a lot of the town here, there's only one way forward, and that's to tear the whole thing down and rebuild it.

(Soundbite of machinery)

GIFFORD: The tearing down part is going on already, as backhoes demolish whole streets of buildings damaged by the tsunami. But standing in his bright blue waterproof overalls, Takanori Niinuma, who runs a small fish processing plant, is not so sure that the rebuilding is ever going to happen.

Mr. TAKANORI NIINUMA: (Through translator) My family has been running this processing company for more than a hundred years. I'm the fifth generation. But I think it might end with me. We were already struggling before the tsunami, but I think this will probably be the end.

GIFFORD: Amid the positive thinking and the eternal stoicism of the Japanese people, here on the coast, there's also the philosophy of fishermen salted with a wisdom that other less primal professions have shaken off: that man is not in control of his own destiny, that the sea gives and the sea takes away, and that man finds his space where he can.

Rob Gifford, NPR News, Kamaishi, Northern Japan.

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