Copyright ©2011 NPR. For personal, noncommercial use only. See Terms of Use. For other uses, prior permission required.

MELISSA BLOCK, Host:

The storm is forecast to pass over eastern Cuba tomorrow. On the other side of the island, some big changes are coming, especially in Havana.

In the years after Fidel Castro's revolution, Havana's neighborhoods went through an extraordinary upheaval. Wealthy and middle-class families fled their homes, and poorer Cubans moved in. Now, those neighborhoods are being transformed, as the Communist authorities prepare to legalize property sales for the first time in 50 years.

Nick Miroff the story from Havana.

NICK MIROFF: Here's the newest, most technologically-advanced way to find property in Havana these days.

(SOUNDBITE OF A DIAL-UP MODEM)

MIROFF: The few fortunate enough to have dial-up Internet access can log on to Revolico.com, Cuba's version of Craigslist. The island's online housing market isn't waiting for the government's new real estate laws to go into effect later this year. There are apartments listed for as little a few thousand dollars, but also homes in Havana's western suburbs for well over a hundred thousand, a fortune here. All of these listing are still technically illegal and certainly not available to foreign buyers, but it's the first time in half a century that Cuban property is being assessed a market value, and new divisions are being coined.

MARIO COYULA: So there is already a Blue Havana, which is the coastal strip, and what I call the Deep South.

MIROFF: Mario Coyula is an architect in Havana. He says that Cuba's changing real estate laws will accelerate a trend already underway. The city's newer and more upscale neighborhoods along the coast will shoot up in value, and poorer Cubans will move south, further inland. Neighborhoods that have been racially integrated may also change, as money sent from abroad goes disproportionately to whiter Cubans, since they're more likely to have relatives who have left the island.

Again, Mario Coyula.

COYULA: Poor people who now live in a nice neighborhood, in a nice house, maybe will sell their properties to another person with more money, and willing to get a better dwelling, and then they will have to go to the periphery.

MIROFF: Neither Coyula nor anyone else has suggested the liberalization measures shouldn't go forward, only that they will bring big changes and risks. That includes the prospect of homelessness, now a rarity in Cuba's paternalistic socialist system. Even if the Castro government puts mechanisms in place to prevent people from selling off their only dwelling for a big cash payout, many will likely find a way to bribe or skirt their way around the rules, just as they've been doing for years. SPANISH LANGUAGE SPOKEN

MIROFF: Here on Havana's Prado Boulevard, real estate moves the old-fashioned way - really old-fashioned. This man with a megaphone is sitting on a bench shouting out the details of the apartment he's offering, as scores of Cuban home-seekers and black-market housing brokers mill about looking to make deals. Handmade property listings are pinned to the trees or held up by prospective traders. One woman wore a sign around her neck that read: I want two for one, looking to trade her larger place for two smaller ones.

Properties here can't be sold legally but they can be swapped, though there's usually some amount of under-the-table cash to grease the exchange.

WALTER LAVOE: (Spanish language spoken)

(SOUNDBITE OF LAUGHTER)

MIROFF: On this recent Saturday morning, 25-year-old Walter Lavoe and his girlfriend are trying to do what's almost impossible for young couples here: move in together and start a family. All he has to offer is another apartment in Santiago, on the other side of the island.

LAVOE: The trouble is that no one will change me a house for an apartment. I have to find people that have an apartment and wants to live in Santiago in an apartment.

(SOUNDBITE OF LAUGHTER)

LAVOE: Difficult.

MIROFF: When the new laws go into effect, Lavoe will be able to sell his old place and use the money to buy something in Havana. The city's prices will likely go up, but the emergence of a strong market should also inspire people to fix up their homes if they can afford it.

Manuel Valdez, a dapper 83-year-old who has been arranging housing swaps for 40 years, said Cuba will probably no longer need brokers like him.

MANUEL VALDEZ: (Spanish language spoken)

MIROFF: People will be able to find the independence they need, or sell their property, or make investments, said Valdez, dressed in a brown guayabera shirt with a white fedora.

When asked if he thought the new real estate market would lead to a more divided city, Valdez said many of the people who got homes from the government years ago have already cashed in and moved out. They had a capitalist mentality, he said.

For NPR News, I'm Nick Miroff in Havana.

Copyright © 2011 NPR. All rights reserved. No quotes from the materials contained herein may be used in any media without attribution to NPR. This transcript is provided for personal, noncommercial use only, pursuant to our Terms of Use. Any other use requires NPR's prior permission. Visit our permissions page for further information.

NPR transcripts are created on a rush deadline by a contractor for NPR, and accuracy and availability may vary. This text may not be in its final form and may be updated or revised in the future. Please be aware that the authoritative record of NPR's programming is the audio.

Comments

 

Please keep your community civil. All comments must follow the NPR.org Community rules and terms of use, and will be moderated prior to posting. NPR reserves the right to use the comments we receive, in whole or in part, and to use the commenter's name and location, in any medium. See also the Terms of Use, Privacy Policy and Community FAQ.