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RENEE MONTAGNE, HOST:
And I'm Renee Montagne.
Several nations have moved from the Arab Spring to the uncertain season that follows.
INSKEEP: In Egypt, a democratic revolution remains in the hands of the military. And we'll hear the concerns of a leading Egyptian writer in a moment.
MONTAGNE: We begin in Libya, where rebels who became heroes fighting Moammar Gadhafi face the more subtle challenge of governing. Earlier this year, rebels survived a siege in the port city of Misrata. Now that city is under threat from the same people who defended it. A militia there is carrying out acts of vengeance and restricting movements in and out of the city.
NPR's Lourdes Garcia-Navarro reports.
(SOUNDBITE OF VEHICLE ENGINES)
LOURDES GARCIA-NAVARRO, BYLINE: At a checkpoint 20 miles outside of Misrata, dozens of cars are parked in the hot sun, waiting for permission to enter the city. Most are being turned away.
MOHAMMED ABDULLAH: (Foreign language spoken)
GARCIA-NAVARRO: Mohammed Abdullah has been sitting by for hours. He has family in Misrata, but is being barred from entering.
Wags now quip that you need a visa to enter Misrata because of the tight restrictions on access to the large coastal city. But it's no joke to the people here.
ABDULLAH: (Foreign language spoken)
GARCIA-NAVARRO: I didn't know this was going to happen, Mohammed says. We are all Libyans. We should help each other. You see all these people? They're trying to see their families. Many women are crying, he says. Misrata has become like its own country.
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GARCIA-NAVARRO: We have permission from the Misrata Council, what's the problem?
UNIDENTIFIED MAN #1: We don't want you to...
GARCIA-NAVARRO: Talk to anyone here.
UNIDENTIFIED MAN #1: ...anyone in the checkpoints.
GARCIA-NAVARRO: A Misrata fighter tries to stop our interview. He says we aren't allowed to talk to people here. He tells us that all those being barred from entering the city are linked to Gadhafi, and that's why they aren't being let in. But others tell a different story.
MAHMOUD AL-KISH: Misrata is very racist to other people from outside.
GARCIA-NAVARRO: That's Mahmoud al-Kish from Tripoli. He is married to a woman from Misrata. But when he tried to enter the city with her, he was also stopped. He had to call a relative to come out to the checkpoint and vouch for them.
AL-KISH: It's 30k from Misrata. And when he come, he sign, like, a paper: I am responsible for Mahmoud and my sister. If anything happen, I would be responsible.
GARCIA-NAVARRO: It's a sign of the new divisions that are emerging in Libya. The National Transitional Council - nominally, the body that oversees Libya now - is weak and divided. The country feels instead like a series of city-states. Misrata and Zintan in the Western Mountains have their own militias and regional governments which act almost autonomously. There is little cohesion or coordination among the various groups, and no one to rein in their excesses.
Recently, wherever the Misrata fighters have gone, destruction has followed. In Gadhafi's birthplace, residents allege they swept through the town burning and looting. In Abu Hadi, the evidence of that is everywhere: destroyed homes that have pro-revolutionary graffiti sprayed on them, empty now of possessions.
In Misrata itself, carloads of stolen goods from the fighting in Sirte and other vanquished pro-Gadhafi towns nearby are regularly seen coming into city.
Saddiq al-Badi is the deputy head of the Misrata Council. He acknowledges that there have been issues in the aftermath of battle.
SADDIQ AL-BADI: (Foreign language spoken)
GARCIA-NAVARRO: But he says these are the actions of individual fighters. It's not our policy. We have issued instructions not to do that. But some people ignore our orders, he says. He says the restrictions on who comes in and out of the city are important because there are security concerns. There are Gadhafi loyalists, he says, who want to cause trouble.
Many Misrata residents agree, the memory of the months of brutal siege still fresh in their minds.
ABDULLAH AHMED: Because Misrata suffered a lot. I mean, I still remember myself, we stayed for about two months with, I mean, no electricity, no water.
GARCIA-NAVARRO: That's Abdullah Ahmed. He says the military council has instituted new measures to vet even Misrata residents who left during the siege and now want to return.
Returning residents must get three of their neighbors to sign a paper vouching for them. Abdullah Ahmed did that for his neighbor, and he thinks it's a good idea.
AHMED: At the beginning, we had some problems in Misrata. We had some people coming from another city carrying weapons and threatening other people. I mean, to get in, you have to be checked and you have to be - if you're wanted or not.
GARCIA-NAVARRO: The mood here in Misrata seems unlikely to change anytime soon.
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GARCIA-NAVARRO: At almost every checkpoint into town, there are slogans painted with these unwelcoming messages: Those who didn't stand with Misrata are traitors, reads one. Those who left when times were tough should not be allowed back now, says another.
UNIDENTIFIED MAN #2: (Foreign language spoken)
GARCIA-NAVARRO: One Misrata fighter says many of us believe that those people should be barred from returning. They could be collaborators. Some of them did very bad things to the people of Misrata, and he says: We don't want them here.
Lourdes Garcia-Navarro, NPR News.
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