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STEVE INSKEEP, HOST:

The country once known as Burma is showing signs it wants to end its isolation. In recent months, U.S. officials have made several visits to Myanmar and the country's foreign minister made a rare visit to Washington. Despite those signs of openness, foreign reporters are still not usually allowed into Myanmar - at least not legally. But our correspondent found a way in and he begins his story on the streets of the country's commercial capital, Yangon.

SULE PAGODA: (Singing in foreign language)

UNIDENTIFIED MAN, BYLINE: Not far from the city, Sule Pagoda, a blind busker, literally sings for her supper.

PAGODA: (Singing in foreign language)

UNIDENTIFIED MAN: A scrawny young girl sits at her feet, keeping an eye on the begging bowl, as throngs of people hurry by, the singer's hips swing almost imperceptibly to her simple beat.

Myanmar's masses have long been forced to dance to the military's tune or face harsh prison terms or worse, the generals and their cronies growing rich exploiting the country's vast mineral and energy wealth while most people remain destitute, desperate and disenfranchised. But the new military-installed government appears to be cleaning up its act.

(SOUNDBITE OF WATER SPLASHING)

UNIDENTIFIED MAN: A few years ago, the generals approved a massive Chinese-financed dam near the headwaters of the Irrawaddy River, just upstream from where these women use the mocha-colored water to beat their clothes clean, brush their teeth and bathe.

(SOUNDBITE OF CROWD CHATTER)

UNIDENTIFIED MAN: Others, like these people farther downstream, depend on the river for transportation, for fish, for agriculture. During British colonial times, the Irrawaddy Delta was called the breadbasket of Southeast Asia. The new dam, opponents argued, threatened all this, but the military went ahead anyway, until last month, when the new president abruptly suspended construction, saying the dam was not in the interests of the people. The decision angered the Chinese government, but drew rare praise from environmentalists, from Western governments, and from the people of Myanmar.

TIN WIN: That's a good thing because people were very, very angry, and so they stop it now.

UNIDENTIFIED MAN: A local businessman in Yangon - we'll call him Tin Win - was surprised by that decision and by others made by the new government.

WIN: Yeah, now we can see it changing, a little bit better than before. Before, yeah, whatever they want, they can do. Now it's, no, they can't do.

UNIDENTIFIED MAN: The new president, Thein Sein, a former general, says he wants a better, more transparent government. And one of the ways he's trying to achieve that is by loosening the military's vise-like grip on Myanmar's media and access to the Internet. So here I am standing on a street corner in central Yangon, where the newspaper vendors are all gathered. And here you can get just about anything that's published in the country. And what's different about what you can get here recently is that there is more press freedom here now. And as a result, journalists are starting to write a little bit more of what they want without fear of reprisal from the government.

On this day, the headlines of most newspapers trumpet the release of the famous political prisoner and comedian Zarganar, who was sentenced two years ago to 35 years in prison for criticizing the military's response to Typhoon Nargis, which killed more than 140,000 people. Even more striking is a business magazine called The Future, which has a full-page photo of democracy icon Aung San Suu Kyi on its cover and a lengthy interview with her inside. In August, the new president actually met with the Nobel laureate - something his predecessor refused to do. None of this would have been possible just a few months ago. Another Yangon resident, Aung Lay, says it's all welcome, but just a beginning.

AUNG LAY: Now 35(ph) percent has been changes here now. But we are cautiously welcome(ph) . We have to be cautiously(ph) welcome(ph) . And also, they have to do, all the political prisoner, have to release all.

UNIDENTIFIED MAN: Caution is to be expected from a people long accustomed to living under the boot of the military. But releasing the estimated 2,000 political prisoners now languishing in prison would win over many skeptical of the government's sincerity. So far it hasn't happened, but it's being discussed openly in parliament, in the press and in government. Just a few months ago, the regime didn't even admit it had political prisoners, only criminals. All these recent changes have prompted some longtime critics of Myanmar's military to start talking about lifting sanctions as a way of encouraging more reform and of easing the country's economic and political dependence on neighboring China. Still, not everyone's convinced.

(SOUNDBITE OF MUSIC)

UNIDENTIFIED MAN: In the city of Mandalay, a snake charmer performs for a large crowd of people on last month's full moon day. The children in the crowd are visibly delighted, the faces of the adults more wary.

UNIDENTIFIED MAN #2: (Foreign language spoken)

UNIDENTIFIED MAN: Many here in Mandalay, in Yangon, all over the country, fear the recent political and economic reforms are a trick, the president merely a puppet of the same repressive military leadership that even now continues a brutal anti-insurgency campaign against the country's ethnic minority militias, a military that constitutionally is still the real power here. The changes, the skeptics fear, merely cosmetic, aimed at duping the people and allowing the military to remain in charge, to keep what's happened in Egypt and Libya from happening here. Yangon businessman Tin Win.

WIN: Yeah, actually, they don't want to change, but that's why they're always thinking how to solve the problem. They always find out the way. They are not so stupid. They are smart, but they are smart in bad way.

UNIDENTIFIED MAN: So they want to make changes, let a little steam come out?

WIN: Yeah.

UNIDENTIFIED MAN: Let people's anger go down a little bit and allow them to stay in power. Little changes.

WIN: Little changes, yeah.

UNIDENTIFIED MAN: Only enough to keep the people down and keep them in power.

WIN: Yeah.

UNIDENTIFIED MAN: But for all the people's suspicion and mistrust, consider this: Opposition leader Aung San Suu Kyi - long demonized by a military that kept her in detention for most of the past two decades - has said she believes President Thein Sein is sincere. She is even considering running for a seat in parliament later this year after she and her party boycotted last year's national elections, calling them rigged. Her cautious optimism, more than anything else, may be the most telling sign that Myanmar is changing.

INSKEEP: The voice of our man in Myanmar, who has made numerous trips there for the past several years and hopes to again, which is why we are not telling you his name. Things have not changed that much yet.

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