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1940s Los Angeles was a gritty place, but it was also one of undeniable beauty and diversity. Author Hector Tobar might not have experienced it himself, but he recommends a book that will let you do just that. He has this essay for our series You Must Read This.

HECTOR TOBAR: People think of Los Angeles as a city without a past. But as a native Angelino, I stumble upon the relics of its history all the time: the rails of our long-ago vanished street cars embedded in the asphalt, for example.

There are many novels that can give their readers a sense of what it was like to live in that old L.A. It's a city of men in fedoras and women in broad-shouldered dresses. But it's John Fante, largely forgotten outside Los Angeles, who best brings the passion, the possibility and the hurt of that glamorous city to life and specifically his 1939 novel "Ask the Dust." "Ask the Dust" is the story of Fante's alter ego, Arturo Bandini. Like Fante himself, Bandini has come to L.A. from Colorado during the Great Depression.

His dream is to be a great writer. But his so-far miniscule royalty checks allow him nothing better than a room in Bunker Hill, a neighborhood of worn-out apartments and sagging Victorian mansions overlooking downtown. Fante populates "Ask the Dust" with people who've come from the colder corners of the U.S. The bright daylight that makes the California palm trees grow tall unsettles them. Many are drifting, lost Midwesterners searching for wealth and happiness, and they've arrived in L.A., as Fante writes, with the dust of Chicago and Cincinnati and Cleveland on their shoes, doomed to die in the sun.

As Bandini toils away in his hotel room, writing short stories, he daydreams about Camilla Lopez, a Mexican-American waitress at his local bar. She soon becomes the mysterious, tragic presence at the center of "Ask the Dust." Their romance is angry and conflicted. They fight on the beach and on Wilshire Boulevard, where Camilla teases Bandini and scandalizes passersby with a flash of her bare legs. When Bandini taunts her with ethnic slurs, she shoots back that she's just as American as he is.

Bandini's obsession with Camilla carries him across the L.A. landscape, and as I read their love story, I see a city that's familiar to me. It's a place where people are slowly realizing that paradise can be a very unhappy destination indeed. It's a multiethnic city, too, with Filipinos and Japanese kids playing football and Jewish refugees, and scenes inside L.A.'s black belt. It's an L.A. that's glitzy and polished and sexy but also desolate and lonely. Today, more than 70 years later, Fante's old Bunker Hill neighborhood is gone.

But now, as then, Americans are on the move again, uprooted by hard times. They're seeking better lives in other booming Sunbelt cities. It's an old American story: We seek, we suffer, we carry our ambitions and our obsessions to new places. And it's a story told with great verve and heart in John Fante's unforgettable novel "Ask the Dust."

SIEGEL: Hector Tobar is a journalist and novelist. His most recent book is "The Barbarian Nurseries."

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