RENEE MONTAGNE, HOST:
China has Shanghai and the U.S. has New York - big international cities, home to power brokers and commerce. Booming Brazil has Sao Paulo. It, too, is an economic engine and also a huge mess - traffic jams go on for miles, infrastructure is crumbling and airports are shoddy. NPR's Juan Forero reports on how an elevated highway, known by the people there as The Worm, is in the middle of a plan to makeover this global city.
(SOUNDBITE OF SEWING MACHINE)
JUAN FORERO, BYLINE: Neide Batochio loves to sew on her old Singer, strategically placed at a desk in front of her window. She says that way she can see the Minhocao, the Big Worm, an elevated highway that twists and turns feet from bedroom windows, for all of 2.2 miles through the center of the city. She opens the sliding glass.
(SOUNDBITE OF SLIDING GLASS DOOR OPENING)
FORERO: And says the sound's not so bad.
NEIDE BATOCHIO: (Foreign language spoken)
FORERO: I've lived here so long, Batochio explains, it's now part of my life. But she had to get used to it. In many ways the Worm symbolizes the build-and-build-big policies of the past as Sao Paulo quickly expanded into a mega-city with 11 million people. An acclaimed documentary, "Elevado," captures the history of the Worm.
(SOUNDBITE OF DOCUMENTARY, "ELEVADO")
PAULO MALUF: (Foreign language spoken)
FORERO: It's the biggest project of reinforced concrete in all Latin America, Mayor Paulo Maluf announced in 1969. In 1971, the Elevado opened to traffic. It was named after President da Costa e Silva. But it's shape and sheer size led Paulistas to dub it The Big Worm.
(SOUNDBITE OF MUSIC)
BATOCHIO: With forlorn music playing, the film captures the changes that came with the highway. Gone was the old Avenida Sao Joao, venerable with its cafes. Gone were the elegant apartment houses and trolleys. One of the directors who made "Elevado" is Paulo Pastorelo.
PAULO PASTORELO: It's very symbolic of the time that it was made, without discussion and everything. Less than 10 years after it was built, they already started discussion about destroying the thing.
FORERO: Today, urban planners propose razing the Worm as part of makeover of the city's outdated infrastructure. Anne Marie Sumner is one of them.
ANNE MARIE SUMNER: I think this is going to happen at some point, I mean, they're doing it all over the world. You can't facelift the Minhocao. I mean there are certain things, there is no face-lifting to it. You, you know, you have to pull it down.
FORERO: Demolishing the Worm is the long-term plan, says the city's urban development chief, Miguel Bucalem. The problem is what to do with all the cars because of the Worm's important role as a corridor for traffic.
MIGUEL BUCALEM: Take it from this function would be very difficult right now for the city because it would imply these cars would cross neighborhoods and would really have a tremendous impact on the vicinity of the Elevado.
FORERO: For now, those who live with the Elevado in their midst make do.
(SOUNDBITE OF SWEEPING)
FORERO: Josefa Santos, sweeping the sidewalk outside her apartment building, says the noise is overwhelming.
JOSEFA SANTOS: (Foreign language spoken)
FORERO: But then when it's raining, she says, it's a good cover to keep you dry. Few have lived with the Worm as long as Luiz Solazzi. From a storefront feet from the highway, he's sold eyeglasses and clocks for a half century.
LUIZ SOLAZZI: (Foreign language spoken)
FORERO: This was good before the highway, Solazzi says, it was a garden, a garden where people strolled. He knows that some planners say a subterranean highway would be the answer, replacing the Worm.
SOLAZZI: (Foreign language spoken)
FORERO: Solazzi knows that a project like that would take years. He says it sounds a bit too Utopian.
Juan Forero, NPR News.
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