In Germany, the music of the season is Johann Sebastian Bach's "Christmas Oratorio." The masterpiece was first performed in Leipzig on Christmas Day, 1734. This year, NPR's Eric Westervelt went to a performance in Berlin, in that city's oldest functioning church.

ERIC WESTERVELT, BYLINE: St. Mary's Church, built around 1290, suffered damage - like most everything in this city - from Allied air raids during the Second World War. But it survived. And today the gothic church sits in stately if jarring contrast next to the giant, kitschy TV tower built by the East German regime on the concrete expanse of Alexanderplatz.

This time of year to get into the church you have to push your way through the packed Christmas market just outside, with its Ferris wheel, mulled wine, holiday sweets, and lively crowds.

But when you step inside the church for the annual performance of J.S. Bach's "Weihnachst-Oratorium," you quickly forget about the bustle outside.


CHRISTIAN BEIER: My name is Christian Beier and I've been now for eight years with the Marienkantori in Berlin.


CHRISTIAN BEIER: It was the first CD my father bought in the '80s when we bought a CD player. So this piece of music was the first CD we had in the family. I mean even if you play it every year, it's always an emotional moment, staying up there and singing Jauchzet, frohlocket. And that's just more or less like doing the service itself. It is a service, basically. So it makes Christmas Christmas.


BEIER: It is unbelievable. It's not explainable what happens there. What is the core(ph) issue of having a service? It's getting in some dialogue with God, it's being moved by whatever is around us. That's the most important point and that's all about making music together. And I don't know many pieces of music that brings that out like this.


BEIER: Being part of it and enjoying the music and doing it with the others together and just let the music flow through you and be a part of it and sing.


WESTERVELT: Berliner Christian Beier, a longtime member of St Mary's Church choir on J.S. Bach's "Christmas Oratorio."

WESTERVELT: Eric Westervelt, NPR News, Berlin.



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