Latin America


From NPR News, this is ALL THINGS CONSIDERED. I'm Audie Cornish.


And I'm Robert Siegel. Cuba is the only country in the world that the U.S. government restricts its own citizens from visiting. Americans can go to Iran, even North Korea, if those places are willing to give them a visa. Well, a relaxation of travel rules by the Obama administration has led to a new surge in U.S.-approved tours to the island, but anti-Castro lawmakers say the programs are thinly-veiled vacation packages with a heavy dose of propaganda. Nick Miroff reports from Havana.

NICK MIROFF, BYLINE: The lobby of Havana's iconic Hotel Nacional is as good a place as any to contemplate the evolution of the 50-year-old American trade embargo against Cuba and its corresponding restrictions on U.S. travel. Every morning, busloads of U.S. visitors, many well into their golden years, gather with tour groups to go out and explore what has long been a forbidden island. This government-owned hotel and others in Cuba have been packed this winter, and one reason is the restoration of a Clinton-era policy known as people-to-people travel, designed to bring ordinary Cubans and Americans into closer contact.

Last year, some 400,000 U.S. travelers came to Cuba, making the United States the second-largest source of foreign visitors to the island after Canada. Most were Cuban-Americans coming to see family, but the demand for Cuba tour packages among U.S. visitors, like William Colon, is growing fast.

WILLIAM COLON: I don't know that you can call this tourism in the regular way that, you know, people will come and go to the beach. Here, this is a learning experience. We are learning what is all about the Cuban people, and our eyes are, you know, wide open. You know, I've been waiting for the last 10 years to do this trip, and finally, we are able to do it.

MIROFF: Colon is president of the Latino Institute, an educational nonprofit, and had traveled with a group of 20 other academics, lawyers and students from New Jersey. The U.S. company that arranged their tour, Insight Cuba, claims to be the largest provider of U.S.-government licensed travel to the island, and that means no days on the beach or nights at Havana's Tropicana Cabaret. Instead, the group goes to hospitals, schools and historic sites, all with a Cuban government-appointed tour guide to keep a pro-Castro spin on things, even when talking about Cuba's cigar festival.

UNIDENTIFIED WOMAN: Cigars are auctioned, especially the ones Fidel Castro have signed, and the money from that goes back to health care.

MIROFF: If U.S. travelers buy tickets to the island through Mexico or another third country, they can go almost anywhere, renting rooms in private Cuban homes, eating in private restaurants and traveling around with taxi drivers, all of which would expose them to the full range of true Cuban feelings about the Castros. But those illegal travelers would be risking a fine from the U.S. Treasury Department, which doesn't allow Americans to go to Cuba in an independent, unstructured way.


MIROFF: Even the educational tours offered by some of the most respected organizations in the United States are now coming under fire from a push to restore Bush-era travel restrictions. A congressional committee is investigating the Smithsonian Institution at the request of Miami Congresswoman Ileana Ros-Lehtinen, chair of the House Foreign Relations Committee. Florida Senator Marco Rubio says the Cuba programs verge on indoctrination. Renee Reed, a librarian from Minnesota, on her second visit to Cuba, says the group trips aren't superficial tourism, but it is up to individual travelers to look a little deeper.

RENEE REED: It's our responsibility to try to educate ourselves to the best of our abilities so that we can have a more balanced perspective.

MIROFF: Defenders of U.S. travel policies say unrestricted American tourism to Cuba would throw an economic lifeline to the Castro government. But Cuba's economy is already being buoyed by Venezuelan fuel subsidies. China and Brazil are making major investments, too, and a Spanish company has started drilling for oil off Cuba's north coast. Gonzalo Perez, the son of Cuban immigrants who grew up in New Jersey, says tourists from all over the world are already visiting the island.

GONZALO PEREZ: Europeans can come here if they want, so the money comes in from that direction, so I don't think that my contribution is going to really make a big difference in the big scheme of things.

MIROFF: Perez says his family wasn't too happy about his Cuba trip, especially his grandfather, who he said had to work four years in the sugarcane fields before the Castro government let him leave for the States in 1970. But Perez says that like many Americans, he wants to see Cuba for himself. For NPR News, I'm Nick Miroff in Havana.

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