The Oscars will be handed out this evening, and if you're planning to watch at home, what better snack to celebrate the film industry than popcorn? As WEEKEND EDITION food commentator Bonny Wolf discovered, these days popcorn goes far beyond plain or buttered.

BONNY WOLF, BYLINE: Food critics call one brand the Rolls Royce of popcorn and another the Prada - designer labels for the simplest, most American snack food. At the Winter Specialty Food trade show, gourmet popcorn was named one of the top five trends to watch. There's popcorn covered in chocolate, infused with bourbon, seasoned with curry. Flavor of the month at Popcornopolis in L.A.? Strawberries and cream. And if you want to make your own fancy popcorn, there are seasonings - chili, lime, dill pickle. And don't be surprised by the popcorn buffet at your next wedding.

While popcorn may be trendy, it's hardly new. Archeologists found ears of popcorn in New Mexico that may be 5,000 years old. Most Native Americans made popcorn long before the Europeans landed. The first settlers took to it right away, and some colonial families ate popcorn with sugar and cream for breakfast. Portable popcorn machines appeared at fairs and carnivals in the late 1800s. Then, the vendors flocked to streets where nickelodeons showed movies all day. When fancy movie palaces opened, the owners resented the tacky popcorn tracked on the plush carpets of their grand staircases.

The Great Depression was popcorn's big break. Cash-strapped movie theaters lowered their standards, brought concessions inside - and a star was born. World War II sugar rations sent popcorn sales into the stratosphere. Without candy, Americans ate three times as much popcorn as usual. Then, television lured people away from the movies. By the 1950s, people were popping corn in their kitchens.

Popcorn, without the chocolate and saturated fat, also plays a starring role as a health food - low in calories and fat, and high in fiber. Americans eat 16 billion quarts of popcorn a year. That's 52 quarts per person. And most of the world's popcorn grows in the U.S.

We love our popcorn - certainly, a performance worthy of a lifetime achievement award.


MARTIN: Bonny Wolf is the author of "Talking with My Mouth Full," and contributing editor of NPR's Kitchen Window. She's also on Twitter: @BonnyWolf.


MARTIN: This is NPR News.

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