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STEVE INSKEEP, HOST:

The European Union is investing more than $4 million to research the use of insects as a protein source for humans.

Teri Schultz traveled to the Netherlands, where the Dutch appear to be ahead of the curve on bug dining.

TERI SCHULTZ, BYLINE: Diners who merely flit over the menu at this Dutch restaurant are sometimes shocked when their plate arrives. Owner Mark Cashoek chuckles.

MARK CASHOEK: They just read the first two things of the whole sentence and then the last word is actually the insect crumble.

SCHULTZ: Insect crumble. Who would want to see crumbled insects on their plate next to the antelope quiche? Evidently, the hundreds of people who swarmed to Cashoek's Specktakel restaurant in Haarlem, the Netherlands last month to partake in two special bug buffets, both sold out.

MICHIEL DEN HARTOGH HEAD CHEF, SPECKTAKEL: (Foreign language spoken) The crispy cricket...

SCHULTZ: Specktakel's head chef Michiel den Hartoghs is in the kitchen assembling the crispy cricket concoction with the special care due any delicacy.

SPECKTAKEL: So I put the curried mayonnaise on the plate and I put the crocodile pie on it, and then...

(SOUNDBITE OF SHAKING)

SPECKTAKEL: We put the fried crickets.

SCHULTZ: den Hartoghs is not above sampling as he cooks...

(SOUNDBITE OF POPPING AND CRUNCH SOUND)

SCHULTZ: ...nor inducing me, a lifelong vegetarian never more devout than at this very moment, to reluctantly intensify my research for this story.

SPECKTAKEL: Just eat it.

SCHULTZ: The dishes receive rave reviews throughout the packed restaurant. Biologist Twan Leiyzer is enthusiastic about every course, capped by the dessert, warm cake - that's worm cake - with candied worm topping.

How is it?

TWAN LEIYZER: Yeah, it's really nice.

SCHULTZ: Can you feel the bugs?

LEIYZER: Mm-hmm. Of course and it tastes very good.

SCHULTZ: Enjoying a boys' night out is a table of exterminators who have a wee bit of trouble leaving behind their day jobs.

UNIDENTIFIED MAN #1: What, he's still moving?

UNIDENTIFIED MAN #2: Kill me.

(SOUNDBITE OF LAUGHTER)

SCHULTZ: Cashoek says he doesn't want Specktakel to be known as just the bug restaurant but does keep one insect item on the menu at all times and he admits the special all-insect evening gets him lots of buzz, and its customers too.

CASHOEK: It is the fear factor and it is the gimmick that they'd try something like that.

SCHULTZ: Not to mention pay more than $70 per plate for the privilege.

An hour east of Haarlem at Wageningen University, scientists are taking exactly the opposite approach, trying to make eating insects less exotic, more normal and cheaper as a food source.

(SOUNDBITE OF NOISE)

SCHULTZ: Ph.D. student Dennis Oonincx is checking out his mealworms living in the cricket lab. Oonincx says his research into how the worms metabolize even a waste product diet shows how superior insects are as a protein source, better than beef cattle or sheep.

DENNIS OONINCX: You can produce more food for people with less input, it's good food and it's better for the environment.

SCHULTZ: Dr. Arnold van Huis, head of Wageningen's entomology department, is one of the world's premier experts in entomophagy, eating insects. He believes the rising price of meat will help change diets.

DR. ARNOLD VAN HUIS: If your Big Mac is going to cost about $100 and your Bug Mac is going to cost only $4, people will change to a Bug Mac.

SCHULTZ: Van Huis says the challenge is to make it delicious. That's where Marian Peters comes in. For years she's been active in bring edible insects to consumers' tables. And Peters says the first commercially-available bug sandwich will be out soon, a wrap filled with insects and peas.

MARIAN PETERS: People liked it. Ninety percent want to have it on their daily menu in the restaurants, and now we're up-scaling the production and bring that to the market.

SCHULTZ: But back at Specktakel restaurant, Gerard van Dyck isn't quite satisfied with his dinner. He's complaining about the worms - the lack of worms.

GERARD VAN DYCK: But you don't see the worms in it. It's just a little bit of worm.

SCHULTZ: Wait. Waiter, waiter, there's not enough fly in my soup?

For NPR News I'm Teri Schultz.

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