ROBERT SIEGEL, HOST:

From NPR News, this is ALL THINGS CONSIDERED. I'm Robert Siegel.

MELISSA BLOCK, HOST:

And I'm Melissa Block. In Vermont, the last sap in the spring maple sugaring season isn't good for much. It's too dark and strong to use for commercial maple syrup. But long ago, that late season sap was used in a potent beer. Steve Zind of Vermont Public Radio reports on efforts to revive this old farm tradition.

STEVE ZIND, BYLINE: In the 1970s, Vermont musician John Cassel recorded a locally popular song about sap beer.

(SOUNDBITE OF SONG, "SAP BEER")

JOHN CASSEL: (Singing) Old man with the sugaring through, and what can you be looking for here? Well, son, now we're going to start brewing sap beer.

ZIND: Ironically, you would have been hard-pressed to find any sap beer to drink by then. It had taken its place among obsolete farm traditions like milking by hand. In a 1992 interview with the Vermont Folklife Center, the late Edgar Dodge described how sap beer was made on the Vermont farm where he grew up.

(SOUNDBITE OF ARCHIVED BROADCAST)

EDGAR DODGE: Well, I can tell you that you would take the last run of the sugaring operation, you know what I'm talking about? About - get down where you can find - taste the leaves in it, that sort of thing, yeah?

ZIND: Dodge said that leafy tasting sap would be boiled down about halfway to syrup. Farmers added hops, yeast, a little sugar or maybe some raisins and put it up in a barrel in the cellar. Folklorist Greg Sharrow says sap beer represents a time when farm families got just about everything they needed from their land.

GREG SHARROW: When you ask farmers about farming in that era, they say, well, we lived less on income than lack of expense. So in that context, every possible resource was utilized.

ZIND: A glass of sap beer was cool relief after a day of hot farm work. As Edgar Dodge remembered, it was brought up out of the cellar just about the time the first hay was cut.

(SOUNDBITE OF ARCHIVED BROADCAST)

DODGE: And this would be fit to drink about the first of the haying, which in those days was Fourth of July. You'd start haying Fourth of July.

ZIND: Any amateur brewer knows there's some guesswork and mystery involved in beer-making, and that applied in spades to sap beer. Dodge said you couldn't be sure until you tasted it, whether the final product would be drinkable or...

(SOUNDBITE OF ARCHIVED BROADCAST)

DODGE: Junk, stringy, nobody could drink it, cut it off with a pair of shears, that sort of thing.

ZIND: But when it didn't take a pair of shears to serve it up, what came out of the barrel was a strong brew.

(SOUNDBITE OF ARCHIVED BROADCAST)

DODGE: And I don't think a man ever lived that could drink two 8-ounce glasses and walk 10 minutes later. I don't believe so. So that was sap beer. I doubt if there's a barrel of sap beer in the state of Vermont today.

ZIND: Maybe not when Dodge reminisced about it 20 years ago. But there is a spark of renewed interest in the old refreshment, thanks to a couple of Vermont microbreweries.

(SOUNDBITE OF MACHINERY)

SEAN LAWSON: This is this year's batch of Maple Triple.

ZIND: This month, Sean Lawson won a silver ribbon at the prestigious World Beer Cup for the sap beer he bottles under his label, Lawson's Finest Liquids. Lawson's sap beer is similar to the traditional drink. He ages it in a barrel, and what comes out is high in alcohol content with a strong maple flavor. And it's different every year.

LAWSON: It's a product of the season and the place and the sugar maker and their trees, so every year, my batch is a little bit different, and that's part of the fun.

ZIND: Last year, Lawson produced 375 hand-numbered and signed bottles of sap beer. This year's brew is just about ready. For NPR News, I'm Steve Zind in Braintree, Vermont.

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