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This is ALL THINGS CONSIDERED from NPR News, I'm Melissa Block.

AUDIE CORNISH, HOST:

And I'm Audie Cornish.

A regular old sweet potato might not seem like anything to get excited about. We're talking about the orange-colored ones, the ones you find most often at the store. Well, in parts of Africa, people are eating them for the first time and public health experts are, in fact, getting excited about it because those orange sweet potatoes are like living vitamin A supplements.

NPR's Dan Charles reports.

DAN CHARLES, BYLINE: There was a time when people assumed that hungry people mainly just needed more food, more calories, more protein. Then, more than 20 years ago, nutritionists working in Africa and Asia found that just giving malnourished children a vitamin A capsule every six months had a dramatic effect. In some studies, the death rate among those children dropped by a quarter.

HOWARTH BOUIS: This number really astounded the nutrition community.

CHARLES: That's Howarth Bouis, an economist at the International Food Policy Research Institute in Washington.

BOUIS: Then they started looking at iron and zinc and iodine deficiencies.

CHARLES: And they kept discovering that these so-called micronutrients make a huge difference in people's health. The poor often don't get enough of them because they only have enough money to get the most cheap and basic foods, like rice or corn. Those crops deliver calories but not all the vitamins and minerals you need. So, public health officials in many poor countries started passing out nutritional supplements - vitamin A capsules, for instance.

The problem is, getting those capsules to hundreds of millions of people is expensive. So, Bouis had this idea: Let's see if we can put more of these micronutrients into the basic staple foods that people are eating already, he said. Let's breed varieties of corn or rice that are naturally higher in iron or vitamin A.

BOUIS: And then, once that seed, that variety, is in the food system, it's available year after year after year.

CHARLES: Sounds convincing but this was a tough sell 20 years ago?

BOUIS: It's a very tough sell.

CHARLES: A lot of public health experts worried that it would be a waste of scarce money. Crop breeders weren't sure it was even possible. And some people thought if these crops looked different people wouldn't eat them. Two decades later, the advocates of this strategy, which they call biofortification, have overcome a lot of these objections.

They've come up with varieties of some crops that have more micronutrients, mostly through traditional breeding; although there's also the genetically engineered golden rice, which provides more vitamin A. But their first real success in the field is the orange sweet potato. And here's one of the people who made it a success.

MARIA ISABEL ANDRADE: My name is Maria Isabel Andrade and I work for the International Potato Center, and I'm based in Mozambique.

CHARLES: Andrade is a sweet potato breeder. She arrived in Mozambique 17 years ago, right around the time that people were starting to talk about creating more nutritious crops. In Mozambique, and also other African countries like Uganda, subsistence farmers grow a lot of sweet potatoes. They've been doing it for centuries, ever since the Portuguese brought the first sweet potatoes here from Latin America.

But for whatever reason, those sweet potatoes are white or yellow. And as it happens, white or yellow sweet potatoes don't give you any vitamin A. The orange flesh of the North American sweet potato, though, does.

Andrade and her fellow sweet potato breeders looked at each other and said, hey, we don't have to spend years creating a high-vitamin A crop, it already exists.

ANDRADE: And we realized that orange-fleshed sweet potato that is eaten in the U.S., could really provide a lot of vitamin A for the people in Africa.

CHARLES: Andrade helped find varieties that would grow well in Mozambique and worked to get them widely distributed.

When I met her recently in Mozambique's capital, Maputo, she drove up in a bright orange Toyota Land Cruiser with pictures of sweet potatoes painted on it. She's working with the government on a big marketing campaign.

(SOUNDBITE OF AN AD)

UNIDENTIFIED MAN: (Foreign language spoken)

CHARLES: There are radio spots and personal visits to countless villages.

ANDRADE: And we still doing all this theater in the village, singing about orange-flesh sweet potato, how good it tastes, how you feed it to your children, and showing recipes so that they get used to it.

CHARLES: I see evidence of her success at urban markets. Also, hours away from any city, along the side of the road, piles of sweet potatoes for sale; many have one small end cut off just to show that they're orange inside.

JAUME OTAVIO MARTIN: (Foreign language spoken)

CHARLES: This potato is healthier, says Jaume Otavio Martin, one of the sellers. It's got more vitamins.

MARTIN: (Foreign language spoken)

CHARLES: These are the sweet potatoes that people want to eat now, he continues. That's why I grow them. People pay more for them.

About a third of all the sweet potatoes in Mozambique, Maria Isabel Andrade says, now are orange. And scientists new have evidence that they're improving people's lives. Children who are eating them do have more vitamin A in their blood; enough to make them healthier. Advocates of biofortification now are trying to duplicate this success with other crops.

Just this year, they started distributing new varieties of beans and pearl millet that are high in iron, to farmers in Rwanda and India. In Zambia, they're releasing a new kind of corn that has deep orange kernels, high in beta-carotene which the body uses to make vitamin A.

But farming changes slowly in Africa and it will probably take at least a decade before anyone know whether these crops are doing as much good as the orange sweet potato.

Dan Charles, NPR News

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