We end this hour in Brooklyn, New York, where you'll hear the end of summer sounds, playgrounds and the canned music of roaming ice cream trucks. For more than 40 years, the weeks leading up to Labor Day have also brought a very different sound to certain neighborhoods - the lilt of steel drum bands echoing from vacant parking lots. The bands are getting ready for tomorrow's steel band Panorama competition. As Bruce Wallace reports, the competition, like the steel drum itself, traces its roots back to the Caribbean island of Trinidad.

BRUCE WALLACE, BYLINE: Despers USA practices on a big parking lot off Atlantic Avenue.


WALLACE: Band members start wandering in around six or seven in the evening and slowly take their places behind racks of steel drums. Like a symphony orchestra, they're organized by section. The thin tenors ringed around the outside; the big, deep oil drum basses toward the center; the midrange guitars, as they're called, nearby. Their section leader counts them in.


WALLACE: He stops them and then stops them again - says the open needs to be stronger. Finally, they get it.


WALLACE: Around the corner from the Despers lot, you run into a second steel band - about 20 players crammed into a smaller lot. Around the corner from that one there's a third. Steel band competition has taken over the block. It's also taking over the band members' lives.

WILFRED KIEAL, JR.: It's hell. I'm not going to lie. It's sleepless nights, a lot of dedication and hard work.

WALLACE: Wilfred Kieal, Jr. is Despers captain. In the weeks leading up to the competition, he goes straight from work to practice; leaves practice at one or two in the morning. He gets a few hours of sleep before getting up and doing it all over again. Even when he's not near a steel drum, he says he's practicing.

JR.: I practice in my head, literally, day and night. I'm actually seeing my sticks hitting every note. It's like I'm playing a video game. I'm playing every note in my head and I'm seeing it.

WALLACE: In addition to daily practices, Panorama season is also jammed with band launch parties.


WALLACE: Each of the bands - there are 11 competing this year - hold fundraising cookouts and concerts at their pan lots.


WALLACE: These help them raise the $10,000 or so it takes to get the pans tuned and painted and shined, rent practice space, buy uniforms and meet the various other costs involved with getting a band to Panorama. These parties also give bands a chance to size up the competition.


WALLACE: A half-dozen bands braved the rain on a recent evening to play Despers' launch. Among them was AdLib Steel Orchestra.


WALLACE: Shanelle County plays double second pan with AdLib. She's 26 and has been with the group since she was 14. She says the band hasn't always gotten respect, in part because it's not based in Brooklyn but Long Island.

SHANELLE COUNTY: People don't know what to expect. And they look at us as the Long Island band because all the bands are in Brooklyn. So, what we say is they sleep on us, that's they don't think we're coming with anything. Like, oh, what do they know? They don't know how to play the pan. They live in Long island.

WALLACE: But AdLib won Panorama last year and they're getting props now.

JR.: Oh, AdLib, the last year's champions. Yeah, you have to watch out for them. Yeah.

WALLACE: Wilfred Kieal is part of a younger generation that's recently taken over leadership of many of these bands, bands that were founded by their parents, first-generation immigrants from Trinidad. He says the older musicians did not hang out.

JR.: Back when I was a kid, you know, the elders used to run the band, they used to tell us, listen, Panorama is war. You don't have any friends in other bands.

WALLACE: Now, though, a bunch of players get together on Tuesdays to bowl. Younger musicians have also brought in new songs.


WALLACE: As Panorama nears, the band's ranks swell. Many end up with close to 100 players in the competition, up from the 15 or 20 they field the rest of the year. Band leaders say it's a headache to pull everything together. Shanelle County says, though, that once the competition starts, all the hassles evaporate.

COUNTY: It just comes with an energy when the lights go on and you're on stage and you're lined up. It just gives you that extra adrenaline that just keeps you going on stage for that 10 minutes. And by the time we're done with that 10 minutes, you would think we played a basketball game, I mean, the way we're sweating and everything. I mean, it's, for me, it's an amazing experience.

WALLACE: Even more amazing, of course, for the band that takes home the first-place prize of $15,000. For NPR News, I'm Bruce Wallace in Brooklyn.


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