MELISSA BLOCK, HOST:
In Russia, religion has been making a comeback, especially in its more traditional forms. That's true for Russian Orthodox Christianity, Islam and Judaism. In Soviet times, religion was suppressed, leaving several generations of Russians with little or no experience of religious practice. NPR's Corey Flintoff has this story about Jews returning to their roots at a small synagogue in the suburbs of Moscow.
(SOUNDBITE OF RELIGIOUS SERVICE)
COREY FLINTOFF, BYLINE: About a dozen men pray at Darkei Shalom, a Hasidic Jewish synagogue in Otradnoye, a working-class neighborhood in north Moscow. Except for the Star of David on its squat tower, the building is as plain and utilitarian as the linoleum on the floor. It sits - along with a Russian Orthodox church and a mosque - on a leafy stretch of land surrounded by towering apartment blocks. Dovid Karpov has been the rabbi here since the synagogue was built 15 years ago. He's a lean man with close-cropped hair and a long, full brown beard that waves as he speaks. He says he's fairly typical of the people who form this community, Jews who grew up in Soviet times with little connection to their religious roots. Was your family religious at all?
RABBI DOVID KARPOV: At all, not at all, not at all.
FLINTOFF: Karpov says he was preparing for a career in the chemical industry when he graduated from Moscow State University, about the time he started to get interested in his roots as a Jew.
KARPOV: (Foreign language spoken)
FLINTOFF: Instead of learning Judaism as a child among his family, Karpov had to find it for himself. He says he's familiar with reform and conservative Judaism because much of his extended family now lives in the United States. But for him, Karpov says there was only one authentic choice: the Lubavitcher movement, the ultra-Orthodox strain of Hasidic Judaism that began in Ukraine and is now headquartered in Brooklyn.
KARPOV: (Foreign language spoken)
FLINTOFF: Karpov says his flock has grown to several hundred partly because people who are part of the community are rearing their children to be religious but also because people with little or no religious background are seeking out the synagogue.
MARGARITA YEKSLER: My name is Margarita and my Jewish name Rachel.
FLINTOFF: Margarita Yeksler says she became part of the community very gradually, over a period of about 10 years.
YEKSLER: It seemed to me that my life was empty, but I felt that there was something in the world, and then I started to become a religious Jew.
FLINTOFF: Yeksler went to an American-Jewish college in Moscow, and now, she's the secretary at the synagogue. Some of those who are drawn to the synagogue are not Jews at all, either by heritage or religion.
VANYA MAKUNIN: My name is Vanya, yes, and I serve the God.
FLINTOFF: Vanya Makunin says he grew up in a family where people believed in God but had no organized religious affiliation. He graduated from the prestigious Moscow Aviation Institute with an electronics degree but says he didn't pursue it because he was making plenty of money as a D.J. in Moscow's glitzy club scene.
MAKUNIN: I had no problems with money. I had no problems with time to spend. Yes, from material point of view, it was perfect.
FLINTOFF: But Makunin, too, felt he needed to do something more than just taking care of his material wants.
MAKUNIN: When I do everything for myself, in fact, I do nothing. When I do something for Almighty One, I do something serious, yes. And then on that point, I understand that I must do something more in religious direction maybe.
FLINTOFF: He's now studying to convert to Judaism and says he hopes one day to be a rabbi. Rabbi Dovid Karpov has a way of illustrating what it's like to learn one's religion, as it were, from scratch. He's been practicing blowing the shofar, the musical instrument made from a ram's horn. When he first began trying to blow it, he says, he could do nothing. And although people told him how to do it, there was no way to master it without trying and trying it by himself.
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FLINTOFF: Karpov looks down at the ram's horn, curving in his hand, and smiles with real joy, as if he were discovering it for the first time. Corey Flintoff, NPR News, Moscow.