RENEE MONTAGNE, HOST:
A new crop is being planted in this country. It doesn't require land or fertilizer, and it can be used in various ways, not just for food.
Craig Lemoult of member station WSHU in Fairfield, Connecticut reports.
CRAIG LEMOULT, BYLINE: Dr. Charlie Yarish loves seaweed. The University of Connecticut scientist walks towards the water on a wet and rocky beach in Stamford, Connecticut at low tide.
DR. CHARLIE YARISH: Take a look at this.
LEMOULT: Yarish reaches down and picks up some ordinary looking seaweed off the wet sand.
YARISH: Notice the color, rich chocolate color. That means it is picking up nitrogen.
LEMOULT: For Yarish, this is the most exciting part of farming seaweed. He calls it...
YARISH: Nutrient bioextraction.
LEMOULT: Too much nitrogen in the water can ultimately kill off plant and animal life, but seaweed captures it and some contaminants in the water.
A United Nations report says nearly 16 million tons of seaweed were farmed in 2008 - most of it in Asia. Yarish helped a company called Ocean Approved start the United States' first open water kelp farm in the Gulf of Maine in 2006, and the business is growing. Now, he's helping create a seaweed farm off the coast of Connecticut.
BREN SMITH: So this is the Mookie.
LEMOULT: The Mookie is Bren Smith's small fishing boat. Smith owns and runs the Thimble Island Oyster Company, off the coast of Branford, Connecticut. The business was hit hard by Tropical Storm Irene last year, ruining about 80 percent of his shellfish crop. So Smith started looking around for something he could farm that would be more resilient. That's when he found Yarish, who agreed to help set him up in the seaweed farming business.
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LEMOULT: This fall, in the water above his shell fishing lines, he'll stretch a 150 foot line about a meter below the surface of the water. They'll be seeded with kelp spores grown in Dr. Yarish's lab.
SMITH: There's no barns, there's no tractors. This is what's so special about ocean farming. Is that it's got a small footprint and it's under the water. I mean, we're just so lucky, I feel like I stumbled on this just great secret that we then can model and hopefully spread out to other places.
LEMOULT: Kelp grows in the winter time, and by spring Smith should have nine to 12 feet of growth. He and Yarish are hoping to try another species in the summer. Because shell fishing is so heavily regulated, he knows the water here is super clean so the seaweed is good to eat. But it will still help remove nitrogen from the water.
SMITH: And the plan is to actually split it into a couple different experimental markets, one for food, one for fertilizer, one for fish food, I'm working with a skin care company in Connecticut, and then one for biofuel.
LEMOULT: He's hoping he can someday fuel his own boat with biofuel from the seaweed. But he's most hopeful that seaweed will take off as a food.
SMITH: If I can't figure out how make this taste good, I'm going to lose a lot of money out here.
LEMOULT: That's where chefs like David Santos come in.
DAVID SANTOS: So the first course we're doing fresh head-on shrimp with seaweed salad.
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LEMOULT: Santos has worked at some of the fanciest restaurants in New Jersey and New York. He now runs a private supper club in the New York area, and is planning to open his own restaurant soon.
SANTOS: Taste it up. Have at it.
LEMOULT: All right. The seaweed just adds like a really nice texture.
SANTOS: Exactly. Exactly.
LEMOULT: Santos says the food world works in kind o f a trickle-down way, starting with the fancy restaurants.
SANTOS: If the big chefs don't use it, it will never catch. Like, it just won't.
LEMOULT: But he says seaweed is a great ingredient, and if chefs start having access to a fresh locally farmed product, they'll start using it.
SANTOS: So if you're the cool guy using the fresh seaweed first, like, that's a big deal.
LEMOULT: He says he's hoping to go to Bren Smith's Connecticut farm this spring with some of his chef friends, to check out it for themselves, and he's looking forward to creating some new seaweed dishes.
For NPR News, I'm Craig LeMoult.