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From NPR News, this is ALL THINGS CONSIDERED. I'm Audie Cornish. Now, a rare and sobering picture of life in North Korea. In that reclusive nation, profound social change is happening. Gender roles have been dramatically redrawn, making women the breadwinners. NPR's Louisa Lim spoke with North Koreans now living in China, and she sent us this story.

UNIDENTIFIED WOMEN: (Singing in foreign language)

LOUISA LIM, BYLINE: North Korean women sing a special song praising their new young leader, Kim Jong-un. But the system he presides over has dramatically changed their role, forcing them to take on new burdens. This has happened gradually over the past two decades. It began in the mid-'90s. Facing a catastrophic famine, the state reduced, then mostly stopped, distributing rations. That changed family life dramatically, according to one woman I spoke to in China who gave her name as Mrs. Kim.

MRS. KIM: (through translator) In the past, our husbands would bring home rations and we'd live off that. But now there are no rations, and the women support the families. If we don't make money, they starve, so life is hard for women.

LIM: The private markets, or jangmadang, have become a lifeline. These sprang up illegally in the mid-'90s, to keep people alive. Now, they're legal. They're the only source of income for almost half North Korean families, according to one survey. Until last year, only older women were allowed to work at the markets, like 52-year-old Mrs. Kim, who sells animals. The men were tied to their state jobs, like her husband, who works at a steel plant. But in this broken economy, he simply doesn't get paid.

KIM: (through translator) There are no materials or resources, so his company doesn't work. But sometimes he builds roads. He hasn't received a salary for a long time, but he still has to go to work.

LIM: She can earn about 3,000 won a day at the market - under 50 U.S. cents at black market rates. But that's double what her husband would earn in a month, were he to get paid. The family has two grown children - a son and daughter, who have state-run jobs, but don't necessarily get paid. So, she's still feeding her whole family. And it's not simply her husband not being paid that's the problem. Sometimes, when there are no roads to build, he has to pay about 20 times his monthly salary not to work.

KIM: (through translator) He had to pay not to work for about six months of last year. You have to pay, even if you can't afford to eat. It's mandatory.

LIM: This is North Korea's Orwellian world of work. If you don't go to work, you go to prison, one male interviewee says, even if there's no work to do. So, men go to jobs where there is nothing to do and often no pay. The one get-out is a system of state-sanctioned extortion, where some men pay many times their monthly salary not to work. It's not clear if this is legal or not. And even when men do get paid by their state employers, it's worthless, as another interviewee, Mr. Kim, admits. He's no relation to Mrs. Kim. He only got paid six times last year.

MR. KIM: (through translator) I get paid 1,200 won a month. It's a joke. There's nothing you can do with that salary. A kilo of rice is something between 5,000 to 7,000 won.

UNIDENTIFIED MEN: (Singing in foreign language)

LIM: North Korea's government is basically dependent on free labor from its citizens. Each young man spends a decade in the army on compulsory military service for nominal pay. Then they're sent to a state-run work unit, which, strapped for cash, don't necessarily pay wages any more. It's modern day slavery, according to Kim Tae-jin, a former political prisoner in the North, who runs an NGO based in Seoul.

KIM TAE-JIN: (through translator) It's a system of slavery. Your free time is not free. You are buying your own time.

LIM: North Korea's men are tied to moribund state-run institutions. The freer market economy, where the real money is to be made, is largely staffed by women. The division of the two parallel economic systems along gender lines is political, according to Marcus Noland, a North Korea expert at the Peterson Institute for International Economics.

MARCUS NOLAND: It's really a function of ideology. What happened was back in the 1990s there was a political decision that working for the state was politically more advanced - man's work. And that is why women were pushed out of employment in core state organizations. And that's why they ended up in the market. Certainly, there was no intent on the part of North Korea decision-makers to raise the role of women relative to men - just the opposite.

LIM: But the upshot of this is that North Korean women now mockingly call their husbands puppies or pets - because they have to be fed, but they do nothing. In 80 to 90 percent of households, a woman is the main breadwinner, according to one South Korean researcher. That's a huge change in this traditionally patriarchal society. And Mrs. Kim has noticed she, and her friends, are becoming bolder.

KIM: (through translator) I don't know if you can call it power, but women do what men can't do, so we can speak louder now. In the past, we obeyed our husbands. But now they can't make money. Women have become the heads of the family - they make the money and feed the men. Men cannot say what they want.

RI SOL-JU: (foreign language spoken)

LIM: This comes as North Korea has a new first lady: the fashionable wife of the young leader Kim Jong-un, introduced to the nation on the TV news. The women I meet hope her high-profile role might translate into gains for them. One major and largely unspoken problem is skyrocketing domestic violence. Kim Seok-hyang is a professor of North Korean studies at Ewha University in Seoul. She blames men's alienation and frustration for the alarming levels of violence in the home.

KIM SEOK-HYANG: I think it's almost 100 percent. I have interviewed more than 60 people. Violence against women is not news for them. It's happening almost every day.

LIM: In the marketplace, too, women are vulnerable. Regulations change in an arbitrary manner. And the mostly female market traders are often forced to pay bribes to powerful men. Marcus Noland says it's a key finding from his interviews with defectors.

NOLAND: Ninety-five percent of the women who were engaged in the market reported paying bribes to police and officials. The flip side of that is more than a third of the men we interviewed saw graft and corruption as the best way to get ahead in North Korea. And so not only do you have a system that's highly corrupt but you have a system that has an increasing gender dimension to it as well.

LIM: That and being exposed to new ideas in the marketplace could affect women's political views. There's still very little civil disobedience, but Noland says it often comes in reaction to state interference with the private markets.

NOLAND: Women, because of their prominence in the market, are in the forefronts of these acts of civil disobedience. These protests are generally reactive and defensive in nature, but women are very prominent in them.

LIM: The extra burden women carry is now producing social consequences, too: young women often want to delay marriage to avoid taking on a husband. For men, their emasculation within their own households is now a fact of life, according to Mr. Kim.

KIM: (through translator) Whatever your wife tells you to do, you do. If women say it's is a cow, it's a cow. If they say it's a giraffe, it's a giraffe. We are slaves, slaves of the women. Women's voices have become louder. Men have become mute.

LIM: That muteness is a matter of survival. He describes what happens to friends whose wives have left them or died.

KIM: (through translator) Men without wives become beggars. They become so hungry that they can't go to work. Then they have to go to market to beg. This has happened to between five and seven men I know.

LIM: This is a country celebrating a multi-million-dollar rocket launch, though it cannot afford to feed its own people; a country where men without wives become beggars; a country where the women who keep their families alive are punch bags in their own homes. Economically, North Korea is a basket-case; but these accounts indicate schisms in the social fabric, too. That life is a daily struggle is no surprise, but these previously hidden stories of suffering show North Korea hasn't lost its capacity to shock. Louisa Lim, NPR News, Beijing.

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