LINDA WERTHEIMER, HOST:
As part of our series on violence in Latin America, we go to Honduras, which now has the dubious distinction of being the most violent country in the world. On an average day, 20 people are murdered in Honduras. That's in a country the size of Tennessee, with a population of eight million.
RENEE MONTAGNE, HOST:
It would be easy to blame drug trafficking for all this violence. Honduras has long been a favorite smuggling corridor for South American cocaine headed north to the U.S. But as NPR's Carrie Kahn reports, the recent notorious rise of Honduras to number one is more complicated.
CARRIE KAHN, BYLINE: In the world's most violent country, San Pedro Sula is the world's deadliest city. More than 1,200 were killed here last year. Violence is toughest on the outskirts of town. We're told the safest time to drive there is in the early morning. The gangs are still asleep. We've just entered the neighborhood of Rivera Hernandez and our driver has told us that we should roll down our tinted windows so that people can see exactly what we're doing. He also crossed himself a couple times before we enter the colonia. Gangs fight viciously for territory here. Caught in the middle are residents who pay them so-called taxes for everything from a safe bus ride to running a small shop. The Oseguera family has been hit hard by the gangs.
ANGELA OSEGUERA: (Spanish spoken)
XIOMARA OSEGUERA: (Spanish spoken)
KAHN: We meet the mother, Angela Oseguera, and her sister Xiomara at the front gate of their modest extended family home.
OSEGUERA: (Spanish spoken)
OSEGUERA: (Spanish spoken)
KAHN: The only men in the house are the aged father and an uncle. Xiomara Oseguera tells us all the other men - her brother and three nephews - had to flee to Mexico.
OSEGUERA: (Spanish spoken)
KAHN: She says the problems started after a gang member killed her nephew and his girlfriend. The killer was jealous over the girl, who was just 17. Oseguera says the men in the family went to the police to report the murder, but somehow the gang got wind of the complaint.
OSEGUERA: (Through interpreter) We thought that we could trust the police. We have no idea how it happened that, you know, that information got out. We don't think that we can trust them anymore.
KAHN: After that, the Oseguera men got text messages and phone calls: If you don't leave, we'll kill your family. It's an open secret that much of Honduras's police force has been infiltrated by organized crime gangs. There are two main gangs terrorizing San Pedro Sula: the Mara Salvatrucha and the 18th Street gang. Hundreds of the estimated 65,000 gang members fill San Pedro Sula's hot, overcrowded prison.
UNIDENTIFIED MAN #1: What are you coming for?
KAHN: Do you speak English?
UNIDENTIFIED MAN #1: Yeah, I speak English.
KAHN: A man with his face covered with a crisp blue bandana and wearing sunglasses strikes up a conversation. He won't give his name but lowers his bandana to show off the tattoos on his temples: an L.A. Dodgers logo on one side and 213 - the Los Angeles area code - on the other. How long did you live in L.A.?
UNIDENTIFIED MAN #1: I lived a while - 20 years.
KAHN: Like thousands in his 18th Street gang, he was deported back to Honduras from L.A., where the gang got its start. For the past seven years he's been here, in this prison built for 800 yet housing 2,000. On this day, though, the gangs aren't fighting. They're holding separate press conferences announcing a truce.
MARCO: (Spanish spoken)
KAHN: This man, who only gives his name as Marco, says his Mara Salvatruchas will no longer commit crimes, no more violence. They ask society and God to forgive them. Such a cease-fire in the war between the gangs is rare good news here. But for the truce to hold, the gangs say, they need the government's help with jobs and opportunities.
Gangs aren't the only cause of the violence. Honduras' geography plays a part. It's a quick one-hour drive from San Pedro Sula to the Caribbean and Honduras' 400-mile-long underdeveloped coastline, now the favored spot for South American cocaine traffickers heading north. According to the State Department, 42 percent of all cocaine headed to the U.S. and 90 percent of all cocaine flights now transit Honduras. And on top of its great location, the government doesn't put up much of a fight either. Migdonia Ayestas of the Violence Observatory at Honduras's Autonomous University says the government is weak. It's struggling to provide basic services, let alone patrol its borders.
MIGDONIA AYESTAS: (Spanish spoken)
KAHN: She says every other day the government declares a state of emergency about something - a state of health emergency, a state of education emergency.
AYESTAS: (Spanish spoken)
KAHN: We are on the brink of becoming a failed state, she says. Corruption is rampant. So is impunity. Only 2 percent of criminal cases end in a conviction. The attorney general was recently suspended amidst charges of corruption and incompetence. And the current police chief has been linked to extra-judicial murders and disappearances. There's a crisis of confidence here, says Ana Pineda, the secretary of justice for human rights.
ANA PINEDA: (Spanish spoken)
KAHN: She says the public doesn't trust the government. Most agencies collude with organized crime or use the institutions for their own political power and wealth, a situation many say has increasingly worsened since the 2009 coup which ousted the left-of-center president. Last year, the U.S. Congress held up funding to Honduras over concerns of alleged human rights abuses and corruption, particularly in the Honduran police force. Part of the funds are still on hold. The State Department, however, continues to fund special police units it says it has closely vetted. Surprisingly, despite the violence, Honduras' economy continues to grow - around 3 percent this year. Agriculture remains the top money generator, as well as an influx of foreign factories.
(SOUNDBITE OF HORNS)
KAHN: In the capital, the shopping malls are packed at lunch time.
Colorfully dressed waiters and waitresses toot horns and shake maracas for a customer's birthday at the TGI Friday's. An armed guard, however, checks you and your bags with a metal detector before you can come in. The government has money for now and is paying its workers and building roads and bridges. In March, Honduras floated a half-a-billion dollar bond and is spending the money - some cynically say to create jobs and short-term wealth before this fall's presidential elections. U.S. ambassador to Honduras Lisa Kubiske says now is not the time to turn our backs on the country. She says it will just hurt the U.S. even more. Nearly three times as many Hondurans were caught at the border last year over the previous one. Asylum claims have skyrocketed too.
LISA KUBISKE: We think that the better route is to keep identifying the actors who are trying to make positive change and keep working with them.
KAHN: Some say outside institutions should step in, like a U.N.-sponsored impunity commission did to help Guatemala. For now, though, a perfect storm rages on: a weak government, ideal geography and violent gangs all conspiring to keep Honduras on its violent path. Carrie Kahn, NPR News.