For Foodies


It is time for again for our summer series Weekend Picnic. And today instead of a side dish or entree to feast on, we're going to bring you something to wash it all down with. Bitters are an essential ingredient in cocktails - from Old Fashioneds, to Manhattans. Some chefs experiment with local roots and herbs to mix up their own recipes for bitters. New Hampshire Public Radio's Emily Corwin takes us inside the world of homemade bitters.

EMILY CORWIN, BYLINE: Evan Mallett is hovering over some plants in a Victorian-era greenhouse in Portsmouth, New Hampshire.

EVAN MALLETT: This one right here is a cinnamon geranium. So, if you rub these leaves gently in your fingers and then smell them, the intensity is incredible, and it's easy to picture that in a cocktail, I think.

CORWIN: Mallett is a chef. He's collecting medicinal herbs, which he infuses in alcohol to make bitters - a bittersweet alcoholic concentrate used to flavor cocktails.


CORWIN: Outside the greenhouse in the rain, Mallett kneels down to cut bunches of lemon balm. He says he often forages in the woods for ingredients, too.

MALLETT: Things like wild chamomile, dock, burdock root.

CORWIN: The thing is this whole homemade bitters trend is relatively new. From prohibition until just a few years ago, almost every bartender in the country relied on just one brand of bitters. It's so ubiquitous, you'll probably recognize the name: Angostura bitters. Now, hip bartenders across the country are experimenting with these bittersweet infusions.


CORWIN: Evan Mallett's own hip bartender, Charlie Coykendall, works behind the bar at The Black Trumpet Restaurant. He shakes a glass mason jar. Inside, chopped up bits of root float around in a brownish liquid.

CHARLIE COYKENDALL: You always start with a base spirit, usually the higher the alcohol the better, because it'll do a better job of extracting the flavors.

CORWIN: If you're into instant gratification, making bitters may not be for you. Turns out it's a three- to six-week process. You slowly add roots or bark, zest, leaves, even petals. Then reduce it, strain it, and add sugar or maple syrup. This one is made with ginger root.

MALLETT: So, I'll let you take a sip of that.

CORWIN: Mallett and Coykendall squeeze an eyedropper full of their ginger bitters onto a spoon, then they hand it to me. Whoa. That's very gingery and very sweet too. It's good.

MALLETT: Yeah, you don't need a lot of that one.

CORWIN: Of course, it's generally not a good idea to drink bitters straight. Coykendall adds his homemade bitters to an aluminum shaker.


COYKENDALL: This has some fresh lemon that I muddled into some simple syrup, some bitters, two ounces of rye whiskey, shook, over fresh ice, and fresh mint.

CORWIN: It's called a Whiskey Smash - a drink Coykendall says is perfect for that summer picnic.


CORWIN: With a cocktail in New Hampshire, I'm Emily Corwin.


MARTIN: This is NPR News.

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