DAVID GREENE, HOST:
Once again MORNING EDITION is bringing you Crime in the City. This is our summertime series about fictional detectives and the places they live. Today's destination is perfect for anyone on vacation or dreaming of going on one - the Jersey Shore - bring your sunscreen.
NPR's Robert Smith introduces us to a man who writes gripping beach reads about the actual beach.
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ROBERT SMITH, BYLINE: There is something delightfully cheesy about a beach town.
CHRIS GRABENSTEIN: I guess I'm a cheesy guy. I like this kind of stuff. Ever since I was a kid, I loved tourist towns.
SMITH: And so when Chris Grabenstein plots his murders, they happen in the kind of corny places you would expect to see out here at the Jersey Shore.
GRABENSTEIN: The Sunglass Menagerie. The Sunglass Menagerie....
GRABENSTEIN: Tennessee Williams would love that.
SMITH: There's and ice cream shop, Do Me a Flavor, Shore Enough Donuts, How You Brewin'?
GRABENSTEIN: You got to have donuts and coffee, right?
SMITH: I will spare you the rest of the puns. This part of the shore, Long Beach Island, has 18 miles of this stuff.
GRABENSTEIN: And this is Fred's Diner.
SMITH: Which isn't very exciting a name.
GRABENSTEIN: No, I changed it to the Pancake Palace.
SMITH: The pancake palace, let's go.
We take one of the turquoise blue booths by the window, a favorite of his characters, and we order the local delicacy: Eggs and Taylor Pork Roll - it's kind of like bologna.
GRABENSTEIN: Thank you.
UNIDENTIFIED WOMAN #1: You're welcome.
SMITH: Grabenstein is a New Yorker. He just vacations out here in Beach Haven. And he didn't set out to mix work and pleasure.
GRABENSTEIN: I actually came up with the title for the first book before anything else, which is "Tilt-a-Whirl" 'cause I'm a Bruce Springsteen nut. And his song "Sandy/Fourth of July," where he sings about that Tilt-a-Whirl down on the south beach drag - I got on it and my shirt got caught - was just in my head. And I said Tilt-a-Whirl would be a great name for a mystery. And I could do a whole series. Each one would be named after an amusement park ride.
SMITH: Like "Mad Mouse," "Whack A Mole," "Rolling Thunder." Grabenstein changed the name of this little town here to Sea Haven but he still needed a detective.
GRABENSTEIN: I wanted to do the opposite of all the heroes I loved in other murder mysteries. You know, the hard-boiled guy who used to be a cop. And then his partner got shot and he drinks too much. He's down in the dumps and always has like a bottle in his drawer.
So I thought what if I did the exact opposite and create almost an overgrown Eagle Boy Scout, a Dudley Do-Right, a guy who will not lie, cheat or steal nor tolerate those who do.
SMITH: He's describing Detective John Ceepak, former Army MP took a cushy job as a beach cop to recover from serving in Iraq. And, well, you can guess that he never quite gets the chance to relax. He was sitting in this very booth, in the first book, when he spotted a young woman covered in blood stumbling from the amusement park just up the street.
SMITH: It's our next stop.
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GRABENSTEIN: Well, this is Fantasy Island.
SMITH: And this I one of those tiny blink-you-miss-them amusement parks tucked all around this island.
GRABENSTEIN: Yeah, and they're terrific. And there's almost every ride, like that one over there will drop you down like a free fall. Over there, we've got a Tilt-a-Whirl.
SMITH: Ah, that's where the young woman's father was found slumped over, dead, in one of the turtle-shaped cars on the ride.
Do you delight in finding the most innocuous places, in order to shove a body?
GRABENSTEIN: Yes, that's always one of the great joys, if you will, of writing a murder mystery is coming up with an interesting place to sort of drop the body, and to have the murder happen. I had one take place actually on a roller coaster in the middle of a ride. And that was a lot of fun to think about.
SMITH: Grabenstein's mysteries, all eight of them so far, have a pretty dark sense of humor. In his most gruesome book, "Whack A Mole," a serial killer is burying human heads out on the beach, just a couple of blocks from here. The body parts are discovered during a sand castle competition.
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SMITH: Pretty much right below where this couple is sprawled out 55 the sand.
MADDY FANTRY: Is that for real?
SMITH: You would know if it was for real, right?
FANTRY: Sure, we would know. We've been here a long time.
SMITH: George and Maddy Fantry live over across the bay. And they only remember one real murder in the last couple of years.
GEORGE FANTRY: People are on vacation and everybody is happy when they are on vacation. You know, it's like they leave their attitudes at home...
FANTRY: ...come down, happy-happy.
SMITH: Grabenstein wanted to play with this stereotype, take a calm, sleepy place and introduce the occasional serial killer. He couldn't predict when he started writing that reality would shake things up get even more. Two disasters were about to hit the shore, Hurricane Sandy, of course - we'll get to that. But first, another force of nature invaded.
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ANGELINA: Did you hook up with him tonight? Probably.
SNOOKIE: Angelina, this is why nobody likes you because shut the (bleep) up.
ANGELINA: No, don't tell me to shut the (bleep) up.
SNOOKIE: Seriously, every...
SMITH: Snooki, one of the cast members of the MTV reality show "Jersey Shore." These kids hit the beach like a tsunami. Grabenstein could not ignore it. So he wrote it into his book "Fun House."
GRABENSTEIN: We're at 1209 Ocean Terrace, the notorious home of the "Jersey Shore" gang. This is where they actually filmed the whole reality show.
SMITH: It's is in Seaside Heights. And when we arrive, we find that even though the show is off the air people still line up to tour the house.
UNIDENTIFIED WOMAN #2: Yeah, I'm dying to see where it all went down. I want to see the kitchen. I want to take pictures with the duck phone. It's all about the duck phone and I want to see where Sammy and Ronny duked it out.
SMITH: In the book, "Fun House," Grabenstein pits his Dudley Do-Right, Officer John Ceepak against a rowdy group of drunks who are starring in a similar reality show.
GRABENSTEIN: They just rub him the wrong way
SMITH: In the book, the show's producers figure that the more trouble the cast gets into, the higher the ratings, which is true in real life too. But in the book, the hi-jinx escalate to murder.
Since we're next to the boardwalk, Grabenstein wants me to see one last icon from his books. Or at least where the icon used to be. We pass the corndog stand, the paintball parlor. And we come to a big gap covered by a chain link fence.
GRABENSTEIN: So at the end of that pier, over there was a roller coaster that was like a wild mouse or a mad mouse, depending on where you grew up; tight turn roller coaster. And this one was cool 'cause it took you out - you were out over the ocean.
SMITH: It was the inspiration for his second mystery, "Mad Mouse." After Hurricane Sandy hit, Grabenstein saw his beloved coaster on the cover The New York Times. The pier was destroyed. And his mad mouse...
GRABENSTEIN: It was this tangled wreckage, almost like a carcass, out in the middle of the ocean. It was pretty horrible.
SMITH: Now, eight months later the shore is showing some signs of progress. A few of the rides have come back. The rest of the boardwalk is up and running. They even sell little bits of the hurricane-damaged wood in the souvenir shops. And Grabenstein says it's made him rethink some things in his books. Mystery readers, they want to come back to the same place over and over again - just like tourists.
GRABENSTEIN: I think the attraction of shore towns are that everything is the same. You know the rides are there that you remember as a kid. And you grow up and you bring your kids. I mean that's I think that was what was so devastating about Sandy, it wiped out, like all those memories and that sense of permanence.
This whole thing is built on sand and there can't be anything permanent about a shore town.
SMITH: Grabenstein's latest book was at the publishers when Sandy hit, so he was only able to slip in a few lines about the storm. His narrator says that John Ceepak pulled the town through Sandy, and promised to tell that story in the next book.
Robert Smith, NPR News.
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GREENE: And this is MORNING EDITION from NPR News. I'm David Greene.
RENEE MONTAGNE, HOST:
And I'm Renee Montagne.
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