RACHEL MARTIN, HOST:
It's WEEKEND EDITION from NPR News. I'm Rachel Martin. This morning, we're going to spend some time looking into a fast-growing religion here in the U.S. It's called Yoruba and it's an ancient religion that came from West Africa, specifically from the Yoruba people of southwestern Nigeria. The religion is especially popular among African-Americans. And it's been growing in popularity over the past few decades. Many followers in this country say Yoruba offers them a spiritual path and a deep sense of cultural belonging. Reporter Christopher Johnson takes us to a young Yoruba community in the suburbs of Seattle.
CHRISTOPHER JOHNSON, BYLINE: Wesley Hurt still remembers the night he met his wife, Cheri Profit. It was nearly eight years ago, not long after a tour in Iraq. He'd just gotten off for weekend release from an Army base in Tacoma, Washington.
WESLEY HURT: And the only thing I had on my mind, man, I want to go have a good time. Put on my nice clothes, get fresh, and just go do it.
JOHNSON: He and some friends went to a club, where he saw Cheri. Wesley tried to meet her eyes. But she wasn't really having it.
CHERI PROFIT: I figured he was probably here looking for, you know, somebody to have some fun with, which a lot of the soldiers are.
JOHNSON: She tried to walk on by. But he caught her by the hand, bought her a drink, and not long after, Wesley and Cheri were a couple. They bonded quickly over food, politics and religion. These two seekers were constantly rethinking their relationships to the divine.
PROFIT: With my mother, we were Jehovah's Witness, we were Pentecost, we were Baptist, we were Seventh Day Adventist. It did not work for me.
HURT: I've been a Southern Baptist all my life, for like up to 21 years. And a lot of things have brought me to try to find my spirit. So, you know, of course you start off in church asking questions, and, you know, I didn't get the answers that I wanted.
JOHNSON: So, Wesley, a 32-year old Atlanta native, started exploring - first Judaism, then Islam. He was looking for something that spoke to his spirit and to his blackness. About two years ago, he found a home in one of Yoruba's esoteric branches. It's called Ifa.
HURT: What brought me to Ifa is how close this tradition is linked to us as African-Americans in this country.
JOHNSON: You'll hear stories like his a lot from black Americans who practice Yoruba traditions today, from those newer to the faith and from the elders, especially the ones who were in New York City in the late 1950s. That's when African American Yoruba communities began to grow alongside a surging black nationalist movement. For several decades, the religious tradition spread - down the East Coast, and westward, to Chicago, to Oakland and L.A...
IFAGBEMI: (Singing in foreign language)
JOHNSON: ...and to the Seattle area. That's where Wesley met an Ifa priest named Ifagbemi. On this day, Wesley, Cheri and a group of about a dozen other believers are in a circle on the carpeted floor in Ifagbemi's bare bones dining room. The priest sits with them, shifting between English and the Yoruba language as he leads them through an Ifa ritual.
IFAGBEMI: (Singing in foreign language)
JOHNSON: Ifagbemi's path has been a lot like Wesley and Cheri's. A black American, born in Topeka, raised in a Christian home. He embraced Ifa as a young adult and later initiated into the priesthood. For nearly four years, he's been heading this small group of devotees.
IFAGBEMI: When you enter into this stuff, you entering into a sacred relationship with people that you're working with. You know, I think it's a privilege.
JOHNSON: Ifagbemi runs the group mostly from his apartment.
IFAGBEMI: Come on back here. This is the orisa room back here.
(SOUNDBITE OF DOOR CLOSING)
JOHNSON: He's converted one of the carpeted bedrooms into a sacred space full of shrines to the gods of Yoruba's pantheon; spirits called orisa.
IFAGBEMI: This is Oya here, Ajajaluga(ph) and also Yemoja.
JOHNSON: There's a long table covered with pure white cloth, and spread with sliced watermelon, bananas and gin - gifts to the divine. Along with a life of worship, Ifagbemi says part of his job as a full-time priest is to help people adapt this ancient religion to a modern American reality.
IFAGBEMI: We're not African anymore. I need to sort of emphasize to a lot of Africa- Americans that, yes, this is an African tradition, yes, we want to connect with our roots and whatever else. But our roots are here too.
JOHNSON: It's a lesson he's been impressing on Wesley and Cheri. Ifa's tenets resonate with them: good character, respect for ancestors. Plus, there's that homecoming - the ways this African faith speaks to them as black people. But it was different for Cheri in the early days when her husband introduced her to Ifa.
PROFIT: Initially - I'm not going to lie - I was a little hesitant at first. It was just the general notion, you know, ooh, you shouldn't do that.
JOHNSON: That hesitation happens to a lot of people like Cheri and Wesley who were once Christians. With Yoruba's shrines and statues, with worshippers going into trance states, some newcomers admit that the African traditions might disturb the folks at church back home. What helped calm Cheri's worries was a ceremony where this faith came alive for her.
PROFIT: They had the drums going, and the ladies were up dancing, and after a while, I was, hey, 'cause I was feeling it. I was feeling everything. I got up, I danced, I was dancing, me and the other women. And it felt good. And I've never experienced that in church, and I've been to church many, many times.
TRACEY HUCKS: For so many African Americans, this tradition has been a space of freedom, and a space of home.
JOHNSON: Tracey Hucks writes about black Americans and Yoruba traditions. She chairs the religion department at Haverford College. Hucks says blacks in America have been drawn to Yoruba for more than a half century because it offers them an ancient spiritual heritage, one that predates slavery in the U.S. At the same time, it helps them affirm their racial identities in this new world.
HUCKS: And it also allows them to affirm their black physicality in a place that has said that you represent anti-beauty in this culture. You know, it is this religion that comes and says, no, you look like the gods of Africa.
JOHNSON: Doing rituals for those gods, dancing for them, and fellowship with her community, Cheri Profit says Ifa just feels right to her.
PROFIT: It's like, it gives you a sense of purpose, and when you feel that, there's no other feeling like that, I feel like, in the world. When you feel that, you know.
JOHNSON: Her husband, Wesley Hurt, who's been searching for years for spiritual answers, he's found his place too.
HURT: First, I was looking for God, but then I started finding myself. And in finding myself, I started bettering myself.
(SOUNDBITE OF RATTLING)
JOHNSON: This whole congregation seated together in the priest's apartment for an intimate ritual. They're all on paths a lot like Wesley's. And they're trusting Ifagbemi as their guide. To close the ceremony, he shakes a rattle, and calls, and everyone responds with Yoruba's most ubiquitous blessing: ase. It's like saying amen.
IFAGBEMI: Ase. Ase. Ase o'to. It's done.
JOHNSON: For the young couple with ties down South, for the Ifa priest from Kansas, and for his small flock near Seattle, so far away from Ifa's West African roots, this old tradition has given everyone a new home. For NPR News, I'm Christopher Johnson.