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As the skies turn dark in Alaska, fishermen loop lanterns around their necks, grab their spears and head on out. They're bound for the clear, frigid water of the Chatanika River hunting for whitefish. From member station KUAC in Fairbanks, Emily Schwing gets a lesson in spearfishing.

EMILY SCHWING, BYLINE: Lifelong Alaskan Cory Kuryla leads his best friend Dave Ensley and me down a dark forest trail.

CORY KURYLA: We make rookies take a bite out of the first fish they catch.

SCHWING: There's a wooden contraption hanging from our necks. It's about the size of a mailbox and one side is open to reveal a large Coleman lantern hissing inside.


SCHWING: It lights our way to the edge of the crystal-clear Chatanika River. Kuryla and Ensley have a warning.

KURYLA: You've got to remember, do not get water on that glass. It can explode...


KURYLA: ...'cause it's so hot.

UNKNOWN MAN: Be careful.

DAVE ENSLEY: You get excited and you'll want to lunge full way forward and you'll dip the lantern in the water leaning forward trying to get that fish.

KURYLA: Don't do that.


SCHWING: It's just past dusk and we're right on time. Whitefish only spawn at night. We carry eight-foot-long spears with us. They look like giant forks. Dave Ensley is the first to go for a fish.


SCHWING: There he is right in front of me. Oh, oh, he's right there. He's right there. Oh, he moved too fast for me.


SCHWING: The water refracts the lantern's yellow light, so aiming for the fish is a challenge.

ENSLEY: There's one right there, right in front of you.

SCHWING: I'm not going to get him. Cory Kuryla has better luck. You got him. There he is.


SCHWING: Kuryla pulls the fish from his spear and drops it in a burlap bag that hangs from his shoulder.

KURYLA: I don't think he's going anywhere.

SCHWING: No, I think you forked him.

KURYLA: I did.

SCHWING: This fishery was closed in 1992 after years of overfishing. It's since reopened, but the state only gives out 200 permits every year. We're limited to 10 fish each. Kuryla remembers when it was limitless.

KURYLA: Everybody would go out and you'd fill up a boat and go get a bunch of whitefish and smoke it and then you had whitefish for the winter.

SCHWING: Tonight we'll take home 13 gleaming, silvery fish between the three of us.

KURYLA: You got to be a true Alaskan to come out here and stand here in the cold water with a spear and - it's fun.

SCHWING: Kuryla says it's also very primal. For NPR News, I'm Emily Schwing in Fairbanks.


UNIDENTIFIED MEN: (Singing) We've got fish for supper. First one fish then another. We've got fish for supper. First one fish then another. We've got fish for supper. First one fish then another. We've got fish for supper.

SIMON: This is NPR News.

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