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RACHEL MARTIN, HOST:

It's chile season - at least in New Mexico, where they take their chiles pretty seriously. Indeed, the chile is the official state vegetable, so probably best to not mention it's actually a fruit. No matter what the capsicum is, the fall harvest is on, and that means it's time to fire up the grills. From Deming, in Southwest New Mexico, NPR's Ted Robbins brings us a Southwest tradition.

TED ROBBINS, BYLINE: Green chiles roasting over a hot, gas flame give off a smoky, sweet, pungent perfume.

LORENZO LUCERO: Oh, yeah...

PEGGY LUCERO: Oh...

LORENZO LUCERO: ...it makes you get hungrier. (Laughter) You want to eat more.

ROBBINS: Lorenzo and Peggy Lucero say they've been coming here, to the Diaz farm in Deming, for 30 years. It only takes a few minutes for the tough skin to blister off in the roaster, leaving the meat of the chile. As the big, steel, mesh cylinder stops rotating, the medium-hot Big Jim chiles are dumped into plastic bags. The Luceros already have their next move planned.

PEGGY LUCERO: Get some cheese and tortillas and - I'm going home and make a burrito with the chile.

ROBBINS: There are green-chile burritos, green-chile chicken enchiladas, green-chile stew with pork, chile and cheese rellenos, a green chile on top of a hamburger. If it has green chile, you're in New Mexico. Eddie Diaz runs the family farm and roadside produce stand with his dad and brothers. The stand is on a road, which leads from cities to the north south to Interstate 10. To Diaz, that aroma means customers.

EDDIE DIAZ: When they come to my stand to smell that chile - and that beautiful smell - they say, oh, I love that smell. I said yeah, it smells like money to me.

ROBBINS: He's a satisfied man, not necessarily a rich man. He's part of a tradition, which goes back generations to folks who roasted chiles at home.

DIAZ: That smell will take you back to your grandma, your great-grandma; and those tastes, you know, it's just part of who you are.

ROBBINS: Eddie Diaz says he thinks about the traditions from the moment he tills the land and plants the seed. And for him, that makes this a sacred business.

DIAZ: I ask the Lord to bless the crop, and I really take to heart what I do and put my spiritual beliefs. And this is my calling - is to be here at this produce stand.

ROBBINS: For the record, I left the Diaz farm in Deming with 35 pounds of roasted chile - 35 pounds for 20 bucks. I can't get the smell out of my car.

ROBBINS: Ted Robbins, NPR News.

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