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Since the summer, a major thoroughfare in the heart of Paris has been closed to cars and open to pedestrians. It's part of the mayor's plan to discourage driving in the city. Locals and tourists were, at first, delighted by the move. But as NPR's Eleanor Beardsley reports, many wonder if it'll be such a hot idea during the cold winter months.

(SOUNDBITE OF TRAFFIC)

ELEANOR BEARDSLEY, BYLINE: I make my way from the busy street next to the bridge, or Pont Alexandre III, down to the Seine River to a new recreation and leisure area called Les Berges, or the banks.

I mean, this is a place that before, you would never come because there would just be wall-to-wall cars speeding by. Now, it's a wonderful place to take a stroll or ride a bike or just sit and hang out.

And that's exactly what people are doing down on the Berges on this Indian summer day. As the noise of the traffic on the streets above recedes, other sounds fill the void, like a speedboat cutting through the waters of the Seine. And there are new sights, like close-up views of the ornate sculptures on the sides of the bridges. Children frolic on a new playground where a wall has been fitted with ropes and footholds for rock climbing.

Further on, there's shuffleboard and chess, and wooden decks covered with plants and lounge chairs. And there's one of the most original things I've ever seen - a couple of shipping containers with glass fronts have been comfily furnished, and you can rent a few hours in them to lounge around with your friends, undisturbed.

Xavier Janc is head of the Berges project at Paris City Hall. He says it's designed to give Parisians what they want: nature, culture and sport.

XAVIER JANC: (Through translator) But most of all, we wanted to get rid of this urban highway that marred the historic heart of the city. We wanted to give the river back to the people who love Paris.

BEARDSLEY: Everyone seems happy to be here. It's Brigitte Loir's first visit.

BRIGITTE LOIR: I think it's a very good idea. And I'm very happy because since a few years, there are less and less cars in Paris and it's beautiful.

BEARDSLEY: Medical student Daniel Secnasie is kicked back in a chaise lounge chair, sipping a drink at one of the new riverbank cafes but he's less excited about the project.

DANIEL SECNASIE: (Foreign language spoken)

BEARDSLEY: Yeah, it's a good idea for a couple of months a year, he says. But the rest of the time, when it's cold and deserted, it's just forcing more traffic onto the streets above. That's exactly the problem, says Jerome Dubus, with the French business organization Medef. The pleasant pedestrian walk has made it much harder to get through the city in a car.

JEROME DUBUS: It's very difficult now to have economic growth in Paris because of traffic. And it's more expensive for all people now because we made more time, and time is money, you know?

BEARDSLEY: Dubus says the Berges project will hurt delivery businesses and small services like plumbers and electricians, and will increase overall congestion. The mile-and-a-half stretch of highway that's been closed off carried about 2,000 cars an hour during peak times. Dubus says now those cars will be forced up into the tiny streets of the Left Bank. He believes the mayor will have to cancel the project once he sees the results of a study his organization is carrying out with the Paris chamber of commerce.

Back at city hall, Janc says reversibility is one of the main pillars of the project, but he doesn't think it will be necessary. He says the traffic problems haven't been nearly as bad as anticipated.

JANC: (Foreign language spoken)

BEARDSLEY: And we've got some surprises up our sleeves for this winter to attract people to the river, he says. And as for those cozy shipping containers, they'll be heated for anyone who wants to hang out on the Seine in the rain, in the middle of January. Eleanor Beardsley, NPR News, Paris.

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