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Germans are serious about their beer. Now the country's main brewers association is urging the United Nations to recognize that fact.

If the group succeeds, a five-century-old law governing how German beer is made will become part of the UNESCO world heritage list. It would join Argentina's tango, Iranian's carpet weaving, and French gastronomy, among other famous traditions that are considered unique and worth protecting.

But not every German brewer thinks enshrining the country's purity law is a good idea. NPR's Soraya Sarhaddi Nelson reports from Berlin.

(SOUNDBITE OF MUSIC)

SORAYA SARHADDI NELSON, BYLINE: The ingredients of German beer are simple, and brewing is left mainly to nature, says the narrator of this film submitted to UNESCO by the German Brewers Association.

(SOUNDBITE OF FILM)

UNIDENTIFIED MAN: (German spoken)

NELSON: It's that formula - known as the beer purity law, or Reinheitsgebot - that the group wants placed on the U.N. agency's Cultural Heritage list.

Written by Bavarian noblemen in the year 1516, the law says only water, barley and hops may be used to brew beer. Yeast was added to the list when scientists discovered the fermenting agent centuries later.

The law was aimed at preventing crops used to make bread from being squandered on brewing. But over time, it became synonymous with high-quality, German beer. Currently, some 5,000 different beers carry its seal.

(SOUNDBITE OF CROWD CHATTER)

NELSON: Many patrons at this bar called Staendige Vetraetung - or Permanent Representation - near what was once the border between East and West Berlin - embrace the purity law as a proud, German tradition.

FRIEDEL DRAUGSBURG: (German spoken)

NELSON: Friedel Draugsburg, who is 76 and one of the owners, says they only sell German beer brewed under the law, which he brags is one of Germany's oldest food laws. He adds it's a sure way to ensure high quality and good taste.

That sentiment is shared by the German Brewers Association. Marc-Oliver Huhnholz is the spokesman.

MARC-OLIVER HUHNHOLZ: It stands for the things you are thinking of when you think of Germany and beer and culture, and friendship, and so all these positive things. I think it's a traditional thing, because it brings us together and holds us together as a nation within this more and more international lifestyles.

NELSON: He and others in the German beer industry hope UNESCO recognition will help foster more beer-drinking here. A study earlier this year found Germans drink less beer now than they did a generation ago.

There are fewer jobs in fields once associated with beer-drinking, like mining and construction. Plus, many more are drinking less alcohol for health reasons.

Huhnholz says German brewers are also trying to be more creative with their beers, while adhering to the purity law, for example, by adding aromatic hops that taste like grapefruit or pineapple.

HUHNHOLZ: The idea and our message is that German beer is purer, and will be pure in future.

NELSON: But some German brewers dismiss the attempt to gain UNESCO recognition as arrogance. They say the purity law is from a by-gone era, and that Germany can compete in the world beer market without it.

One opponent of the Reinheitsgebot is Johannes Heidenpeter. He brews ales without following the purity law, and sells them to patrons at this indoor market in the popular Berlin neighborhood of Kreuzberg.

In the basement underneath the market, Heidenpeter removes several barrels of his brews from a storage locker for the many customers he's expecting later in the day.

He first began brewing beer four years ago at home in his kitchen, but for the past year, has produced 300 gallons on average per week in the marketplace basement.

JOHANNES HEIDENPETER: (German spoken)

NELSON: Heidenpeter claims that limiting his brewing to the centuries-old law restricts creativity. He says: Why shouldn't I include coriander or berries if they improve the taste?

He adds that plenty of countries with brewing traditions as old as Germany's produce high-quality beer without the purity law.

Soraya Sarhaddi Nelson, NPR News, Berlin.

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