ROBERT SIEGEL, HOST:
Long before it became an Olympic host city, Sochi was a favorite getaway for one of history's most ruthless dictators, Joseph Stalin. The Soviet leader had a villa built in the hills overlooking the Black Sea. He visited during some of the most tumultuous years of his reign. The villa, known as Stalin's dacha, or summer house, is now a museum. NPR's Corey Flintoff reports.
COREY FLINTOFF, BYLINE: Stalin's dacha was built in 1934, and he used it until the end of the Second World War in 1945.
It's an elegant villa with wide balconies on all sides and a courtyard with palm trees. The grounds have a sense of calm that almost makes it possible to forget that the period included the Great Purge, a wave of mass arrests, tortured confessions, imprisonments and murders. But the house is full of reminders that it was the refuge of a deeply paranoid and isolated man.
This is our guide, Viktoria, who asked that her last name not be used. She points out that Stalin's obsession with security began with the color of the building, forest green.
VIKTORIA: (Through Translator) The green color is a form of camouflage, so it can't be seen from the seaside or the mountains.
FLINTOFF: And in fact, the building is still nearly invisible among the cypress trees. Viktoria leads us inside, to the room that Stalin used as his office. The furniture is all original, she says, including Stalin's big desk. A wax figure of the dictator himself sits behind the desk, pale, unpleasantly doll-like and smaller than you might have imagined.
From the time he first began to visit here, Stalin was signing death warrants for his Communist Party rivals, intellectuals, military officers and others. State archives show that he personally signed orders to kill at least 40,000 people and lived in fear that some enemy would take his own life.
VIKTORIA: (Through Translator) The sofas are interesting. They're bullet proof, and the back and sides are built high enough so that Stalin's head wouldn't be visible when he was sitting there.
FLINTOFF: She adds that Stalin loved to watch movies, especially comedies by Charlie Chaplin, but says he preferred to watch alone because he didn't like to show his emotions in front of others.
VIKTORIA: (Foreign language spoken)
FLINTOFF: Viktoria leads the way into the billiard room, where the dictator used a special lead-weighted cue because a damaged arm made it hard for him to feel the weight of a regular stick. The house has more of Stalin's peculiarities - the curtains cut short so he could see whether anyone was hiding behind them. He didn't like carpets on the floor because he preferred to hear the sound of approaching footsteps.
ALLA GUSEVA: (Foreign language spoken)
FLINTOFF: Historian Alla Guseva says Stalin turned Sochi into a resort fairy tale of how communist society treated its workers, with palatial health spas, theaters and sports centers. Yet, at the same time, Stalin and his collaborators were condemning people to slavery in labor camps by the hundreds of thousands and ordering deportations of entire ethnic communities.
GUSEVA: (Foreign language spoken)
FLINTOFF: Guseva shows the museum's exhibits devoted to the many people who helped build Sochi for Stalin, yet still fell victim to his repressions. During his 30-year reign, Stalin is thought to have been responsible for the deaths of at least 20 million people. That history is hard to reconcile with the pleasant villa on the Black Sea and the man who spent evenings there watching Charlie Chaplin movies alone. Corey Flintoff, NPR News, Sochi.
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