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STEVE INSKEEP, HOST:

Goat meat is a mainstay in many African, Asian and Caribbean diets - but you cannot find it everywhere in the United States. That can be a problem for immigrants and also for refugees who are suddenly thrown out of their accustomed diets. So next, we hear of an innovative way to meet that demand.

Here's Angela Evancie of Vermont Public Radio.

(SOUNDBITE OF BLEATING BABY GOATS)

ANGELA EVANCIE, BYLINE: First, a bit of terminology. Baby goats are called kids. Male baby goats are called bucklings.

THEONESTE RWAYITARE: Hey, comeon, comeon, comeon. Yee.

EVANCIE: Theoneste Rwayitare has 57 bucklings to feed this morning.

(SOUNDBITE OF POURING MILK)

EVANCIE: Each one gets a cup of...

RWAYITARE: The milk, yeah. The milk, the powder milk, yes.

EVANCIE: Rwayitare is from Rwanda. He's one of three refugees working here at the Vermont Goat Collaborative. The project connects new Americans with bucklings to raise and sell to members of their community - something Rwayitare has done before.

RWAYITARE: In my country, we have goat. We have goat and the goat are not complicated to farm, no hard work.

EVANCIE: Refugees resettled in Burlington find that it is hard work to even buy the goat meat that was so integral to their diets at home. Some would drive all the way to Boston to get it. Now, Karen Freudenberger says it's just a matter of traveling a few miles outside of town to this farm.

KAREN FREUDENBERGER: So they buy the goat and then they pay $10 to use the slaughter room, and then they take their meat home from there.

EVANCIE: And before Freudenberger got this project off the ground, most goat consumed in Vermont was coming from much further away than Massachusetts. She says that every year, the state imports 3,000 goats from Australia and New Zealand.

FREUDENBERGER: And that seemed, on one hand, a travesty in a state that's trying to maintain its working landscape, but on the other hand, a huge opportunity.

EVANCIE: An opportunity, partly because there's already a good supply of bucklings in Vermont. They're born on the dairies that produce chevre and yogurt. Those farms that only raise up females - so bucklings on lots of farms usually meet an untimely end.

FREUDENBERGER: Many other farms took huge amounts of time to go around and find people who wanted a pet goat here and a pet goat there.

STEVE REID: This is a great arrangement for us.

EVANCIE: Steve Reid produces goats milk caramel. His operation is one of six now giving its bucklings to the collaborative.

REID: Just to know that we have someone who will take them.

EVANCIE: Just this morning, Reid sent 20 goats off with two refugees who showed up in a Honda minivan, back seats removed and laid with hay. You know, for the kids.

UNIDENTIFIED MAN: Thank you so much.

REID: Yeah. Wow. Thank you.

UNIDENTIFIED MAN: OK, Steve.

REID: Thank you. Good to see you both.

EVANCIE: And as Vermont's goat dairy industry grows, so will the number of surplus bucklings. Shirley Richardson sees this as an even bigger opportunity.

SHIRLEY RICHARDSON: It's the most consumed meat in the world, so why wouldn't we want to bring that to the market?

EVANCIE: Richardson heads up Vermont Chevon. Chevon is another word for goat meat. She wants to see the state help resurrect the goat industry that this country once had.

RICHARDSON: We used to be a main exporter of the goat meat, but now we're the main importer of goat meat.

EVANCIE: If you've never tasted goat, Theoneste Rwayitare recommends grilled kebabs, called brochette.

RWAYITARE: You prepare with barbecue. When you eat brochette with barbecue, is really, really tastes good. Yeah.

EVANCIE: Good, and good for you. As much protein as beef, but with less fat and cholesterol.

For NPR News, I'm Angela Evancie.

(SOUNDBITE OF GOATS)

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