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For One Crime Writer, Peaceful Shetland Is A Perfect Place For Murder
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For One Crime Writer, Peaceful Shetland Is A Perfect Place For Murder
For One Crime Writer, Peaceful Shetland Is A Perfect Place For Murder
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STEVE INSKEEP, HOST:

Oh, it's summertime which is when we bring you Crime In The City. We visit the writers of mysteries or detective novels in the cities that their stories bring to life. A great way to travel from home. And this morning we'll travel to the Shetland Islands - part of Scotland well above mainland Britain. The author Ann Cleeves has set five crime novels on these remote islands with a sixth on the way. And her series has become a popular TV show in Britain. NPR's Ari Shapiro recently traveled to Shetland and met with Cleeves to discover what makes the islands such a good place for murder.

ARI SHAPIRO, BYLINE: Ann Cleeves said it best in her novel, "Dead Water." Shetland didn't do pretty. It did wild and bleak and dramatic.

ANN CLEEVES: I love the idea of long, low horizons with secrets hidden underneath.

SHAPIRO: This is a damp and rocky place. Endless miles of green and gray. Humanity seems to cling to the land like a few tenacious barnacles.

CLEEVES: There are no trees in Shetland. And you can't do over-grown language here. It has to be simple. The language has to be simple because that's how the landscape is.

SHAPIRO: In the winter, you barely see the sun here. And in these summer days, the daylight never leaves. Cleeves puts it this way in her book, "White Nights." People came looking for paradise or peace and found the white nights made them even more disturbed.

CLEEVES: There is a time where people have lots of energy, apparently, and just keep going. Yeah, it's good fun but it's a bit - maybe a bit manic, too.

SHAPIRO: It's about 2:30 a.m. right now and the sun has not gone away. I can still see the light coming into my hotel room curtain. This is what Shetlanders call the simmered dim. It's the local dialect for the summer dusk.

SHAPIRO: The next morning, Ann Cleeves takes me to visit her friends Jim Dickson and Ingrid Eunson.

SHAPIRO: Are these blue eggs from the hens you have out back?

JIM DICKSON: Yeah. Yeah.

SHAPIRO: Oh, wow.

SHAPIRO: While Jim puts on the tea kettle, Ingrid pulls out homemade bannocks. It's a local food like a thin, chewy scone served with butter and jam she made with rhubarb from her garden.

INGRID EUNSON: This is classic Shetland. You never get invited into a house without being offered something.

SHAPIRO: Ingrid and Jim read Ann's mysteries before they're published to make sure she gets the local details right.

CLEEVES: Well, they're very accurate because we do have that amount of murder.

SHAPIRO: Actually, these islands don't have murder. People leave their houses unlocked when they go to work in the morning.

CLEEVES: I get her to read it and sometimes I make absolute dreadful mistakes like shearing a sheep and then having the - having the sheepskin. You remember?

EUNSON: I remember that one. Just think about this, Ann, because obviously the skin is still on the sheep so if you shear a sheep, you obviously don't get the sheepskin.

SHAPIRO: You're never more than a few miles from the water in Shetland. Long before there were roads, people got around here by boat. Fishing is still the biggest industry. Huge salmon and mussel farms lie just offshore. So do the North Sea oilfields which have made Shetland very wealthy. In one of her mysteries, Cleeves writes Shetland only made sense when it was seen from the sea. So after our tea, Jim takes us out in his boat. There may not be murder here in Shetland but there is violence. A few minutes into our boat ride, Jim points out a massive seabird, the great skua, chasing a small arctic tern.

DICKSON: And in fact, the great skua will also drown other birds. Two great skuas get together and they tire out, like, a gannet. They'll tire it out and eventually they will drown it. And then they pluck the feathers off and then they eat it.

SHAPIRO: That's horrific.

DICKSON: No it's not. It's nature.

SHAPIRO: Shetland is a global destination for birdwatchers. As we motor around, soaring red cliffs, puffins, gulls, and red-throated divers wheel overhead. They nest in the sheer rock faces and plunge into the water for sand eels and mackerel. Jim pulls us into little cove where seals lie on rocks with their newborns. We're miles from any other human. Cleeves and I start hiking up cliffs covered with wildflowers. The drop-off is dizzying.

CLEEVES: I did ask a pathologist friend of mine, what's the best way to commit the perfect murder? And he reckoned pushing somebody over a cliff because how would you know whether they'd just fallen or if they've been pushed?

SHAPIRO: We reach a low horseshoe shape carved out of the hillside. It's peat. In these islands, many people dig peat to burn in the winter for warmth. Remember, there are no trees here for firewood. In the novel, "Raven Black," a young murder victim's body is discovered preserved in peat years after she was killed.

CLEEVES: Yes and that's true because archeological remains have been found with bodies centuries old preserved in peat. It has a quality where the skin is preserved almost like leather.

SHAPIRO: Cleeves has been making regular trips here for 40 years. Her books are so popular that the tourism agency has put out a map showing where key scenes in the novels take place. But she's still an outsider. Locals call them soothmoothers - people who arrive on the ferry through the South mouth of the inlet. This is a place where people take their roots seriously.

EDNA BURKE: My father can trace his family back to the 1600s.

SHAPIRO: Edna Burke used to run the bookshop here. Now she leads tours of the islands. She's happy to give an example of the local dialect with influences from Scotland and Scandinavia.

BURKE: Well, if I was just to be very cheeky and say, can I have a peerie smoorikin? It would be, can I have a small kiss?

SHAPIRO: Edna says tourists often come having seen the BBC adaptation of the Shetland books. The TV show is all moody fog and low clouds.

(SOUNDBITE OF "SHETLAND")

DOUGLAS HENSHALL: (As Jimmy Perez) You take the front door. I'll take the boathouse.

SHAPIRO: These islands have made Ann Cleeve's career, but it took her a long time to write about them. When she first came to Shetland in the early 1970s, she was an aimless 20-something college dropout hired as an assistant cook in a bird observatory.

CLEEVES: I didn't know anything about birds and I couldn't cook.

SHAPIRO: She met the man that she would marry. Two years later, they moved away. Cleeves became a crime writer without much success. She wrote a book a year for 20 years. And though she came back to Shetland all the time, she never set a novel here. Then one winter, she was here birdwatching with her husband. Snow had fallen, frozen over with ice. And Cleeves saw ravens, black against the bright white snow.

CLEEVES: And I thought, 'cause I'm a crime writer, if there was blood as well, it would be really quite mythic - like fairy stories, isn't it? With those colors like "Sleeping Beauty" or "Snow White." And just with that image I started writing "Raven Black."

SHAPIRO: "Raven Black" was the first Shetland novel. Her agent said it would have to be a standalone. It just wasn't believable to have lots of murders set in a small cluster of islands like this. "Raven Black" was a huge hit. It won the biggest crime fiction award in the U.K. And now the sixth Shetland novel is coming out next spring. Ari Shapiro, NPR News, Shetland.

INSKEEP: Turns out you can never have too many murders on a small cluster of islands. We're glad you're starting your day here with us. You can stay in touch throughout the day on social media. Visit the MORNING EDITION Facebook page. You can also find us on Twitter @morningedition, @nprinskeep and @nprmontagne. And stay tuned here on the radio. There's more ahead, including All Things Considered on many of these same stations. This is NPR News.

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