Lamb Shanks With Wheat Berries And Parsnips

Sweet, nutty parsnips and earthy, chewy wheat berries turn this just-beyond-basic version of classic shanks into a one-pot meal. There is some advance preparation. The recipe is adapted from Cooking with Shelburne Farms by Melissa Pasanen and Rick Gencarelli (Viking Studio 2007).

Makes 4 servings

1 1/2 cups hard, red wheat berries, soaked overnight in water*

2 sprigs fresh rosemary

6 sprigs fresh thyme

1 bay leaf

4 meaty lamb shanks, about 1 pound each

1 teaspoon coarse kosher salt, plus more to taste

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

2 tablespoons olive oil, divided

2 large carrots (about 1/2 pound), peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces

2 medium parsnips (about 1/2 pound), peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces

1 medium onion, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks

1 large celery stalk, coarsely chopped

4 garlic cloves, smashed with the flat side of a knife and peeled

1 1/2 cups dry red wine

14.5-ounce can diced tomatoes with their juice

2 cups chicken stock, preferably low sodium

* Wheat berries are available at most natural foods and specialty stores and in the natural foods section of some supermarkets

The night before cooking the lamb, put the wheat berries in a large bowl and cover them with cold water.

Tie the rosemary, thyme and bay leaf up in a cheesecloth bag and set aside. Pat the lamb shanks dry and season them with the salt and pepper to taste.

In a large Dutch oven set over medium-high heat, heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. When the oil is hot, brown the shanks, in batches if necessary so as not to crowd the pan. (Or, brown the shanks on a foil-lined baking sheet under the broiler. See "A Note On Browning," above, in story inset). Cook, turning periodically, until a nice crust has formed, 8 to 10 minutes total. Remove the browned shanks to a plate.

Add the remaining tablespoon of olive oil to the pan and add the carrots, parsnips, onion, celery and garlic cloves. Cook, stirring, for 7 to 9 minutes until the vegetables are turning golden. Add the wine and deglaze the pan, stirring to scrape up any brown bits. Simmer 5 minutes and then add the herb bundle, tomatoes with their juice, and chicken stock to the pan, along with the drained wheat berries. Bring the pot to a simmer and cover. Simmer on the stove for 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Return lamb shanks and any accumulated juices to the pot. Put the covered pot in the oven and cook for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, until the lamb and wheat berries are tender (the wheat berries should still have a little bite to them).

To serve, present the shanks whole, or shred the meat off the bone in the kitchen and serve plates of wheat berries and vegetables topped with the shredded meat and cooking liquid.