Clifton's Cafeteria, Serving Kitsch Since 1935

Jell-O dominates the dessert table at Clifton's in downtown Los Angeles. Shereen Meraji, NPR hide caption
Clifton's Cafeteria, one of Los Angeles' oldest and largest restaurants, is a legacy of a very different era -- a place where Jell-O desserts are still king, and lunch specials come with a big dollop of kitsch.
Opened in 1935, the landmark dining establishment is decorated like a redwood forest inside, complete with a waterfall, a stuffed moose head and a fishing bear.
Self-proclaimed kitsch historian Charles Phoenix takes Madeleine Brand on a tour of what he says is the city's largest restaurant, which has seating for more than 600 guests.