The James Beard Award-winning author of A Geography of Oysters presents a recipe-complemented celebration of America's apple renaissance that explores 123 of the fruit's considerable varieties, including the Black Oxford, the Knobbed Russet and the D'Arcy Spice.
Goodband compares these Knobbed Russets to shrunken heads. Others say potatoes or toads. They're all gnarled and warty and brown, but don't be intimidated: They taste great when ripe. They originated in Sussex, England, in 1819.