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food and identity

This dish — mussels smoked in pine needles and pine ash butter — was inspired by a 1605 recipe that the explorer Samuel de Champlain made for his men while traveling through Canada. It's one of many historically inspired items on the menu at the Toronto restaurant Boralia. Courtesy of Nick Merzetti hide caption

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Courtesy of Nick Merzetti

Detail of The Autumn, a painting of a man made of food by 16th century Italian painter Giuseppe Arcimboldo. Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images hide caption

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Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images